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Ok, let's get this over with. Whats your favorite oil?


Cruizin

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2015 Super Tenere 1200....easy to sync the throttle bodies.

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20 minutes ago, Brownie said:

 

Yamalube Advantage

 

20 years, 100,000 miles, 5,000 hrs guarantee, register and service yourself with yamalube and yamaha filter. $20/gal $11/filter.

 

They are pretty sure that engines only need clean oil at the appropriate level.  So am I.  The program is also transferable.  I've owned bikes for 20 years, but who among us has put in 100,000 miles on a single bike?

 

Also, that traxxion parity video was so spot on.

 

Best reply 👍👍

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Grabbed a gallon of YamaLube Semi-Synthetic 10w50 ($31.49) for my 2nd oil change at 600 miles. Somewhere between 20-50 miles I’ll do the 1st oil change and use YamaLube 10w40 Performance All Purpose ($19.99). Have around 20k miles on my WRRs with the All Purpose and changes every 1500-2k miles usually. For the T7 I’ll use it for the first change and at 600 switch to the Semi-Synthetic and see how I like it. It’s not a bad price.. 

 

I’m glad here in the USA we can do our own maintenance unlike many places in the world. The $600 the dealers want for the 600 mile check is crazy. 
 

 

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While I've not had any issues with any brand of oil, I've been very happy with Maxima oils in my bikes for the last couple of years.

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1 hour ago, Adrenolin said:

Grabbed a gallon of YamaLube Semi-Synthetic 10w50 ($31.49) for my 2nd oil change at 600 miles. Somewhere between 20-50 miles I’ll do the 1st oil change and use YamaLube 10w40 Performance All Purpose ($19.99). Have around 20k miles on my WRRs with the All Purpose and changes every 1500-2k miles usually. For the T7 I’ll use it for the first change and at 600 switch to the Semi-Synthetic and see how I like it. It’s not a bad price.. 

 

I’m glad here in the USA we can do our own maintenance unlike many places in the world. The $600 the dealers want for the 600 mile check is crazy. 
 

 

 

Why change the oil before the recommenced 600 mile/1k? 

 

When I went to the dealer, he explained the difference in break in oil vs what they put after 1k, the break in stuff is designed for those many miles and to help the engine bed in properly. I just wonder how all of a sudden everyone becomes a chemical and mechanical engineer at the same time prescribing their own methods based on what feels right, vs what is

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2 hours ago, Brownie said:

 

Yamalube Advantage

 

20 years, 100,000 miles, 5,000 hrs guarantee, register and service yourself with yamalube and yamaha filter. $20/gal $11/filter.

 

They are pretty sure that engines only need clean oil at the appropriate level.  So am I.  The program is also transferable.  I've owned bikes for 20 years, but who among us has put in 100,000 miles on a single bike?

 

Also, that traxxion parity video was so spot on.

 

All you need to know.

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On 6/9/2020 at 3:13 PM, Cruizin said:

This video from my friends at Traxxion Dynamics clears everything up and settles the long debate. 

 

 

t

That was really helpful and informative , Thanks. Who knew that simply adding Automatic transmission fluid to your oil would transform you bike into a DCT equipped machine.  Brilliant 😂😂😂😂.   I need to pass this information on to all my riding buddies. 

 

On 6/9/2020 at 3:13 PM, Cruizin said:

This video from my friends at Traxxion Dynamics clears everything up and settles the long debate. 

 

 

t

 

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6 hours ago, Cruizin said:

Just got off phone with dealer.  They want $300 for the 600 mile service. 

“3 hours ago @Adrenolin Adrenolin said The $600 the dealers want for the 600 mile check is crazy”.

 

How did $300 double to $600, lol.

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2 hours ago, ScorpionT16 said:

 

Why change the oil before the recommenced 600 mile/1k? 

 

When I went to the dealer, he explained the difference in break in oil vs what they put after 1k, the break in stuff is designed for those many miles and to help the engine bed in properly. I just wonder how all of a sudden everyone becomes a chemical and mechanical engineer at the same time prescribing their own methods based on what feels right, vs what is

There isn’t any break in oil used in most modern day engines today. Many are even shipped with semi synthetic already in them. While it’s hard to believe, there is still some machining remnants and burrs in the engine when you first get it. A short run will clean the burrs up and get things settled. A quick oil change at 20-50 miles and putting a regular oil back in is still perfectly fine and you’re removing any metals that remained. Why bother grinding this crap up for 600 miles? Are they gonna hurt the engine? No.. but again.. why not just remove them and finish seating the rings with clean oil. 
 

I did this for my new WRR in ‘15 and a few buddies do this as well on new bikes. Dealers aren’t gonna tell you to do it. They’re gonna follow what’s in the manual and try telling most customers they need to come back in for a $600 service at 50 and 600 miles. 😆

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35 minutes ago, X Plane said:

“3 hours ago @Adrenolin Adrenolin said The $600 the dealers want for the 600 mile check is crazy”.

 

How did $300 double to $600, lol.

Different dealers and services. I’ve seen US dealers charge anywhere from $250 to $600 for the WRR initial service. My bike leaves the dealership and doesn’t return. 

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I changed my oil at 20 miles, drained it thru a strainer and got metal flakes.  Changing oil again at 600 and then as far as I'm concerned that fuckers broke in.been doing it this way for a long time, it's just me. Same as why some people wipe with the left and some with their right.

 

As long as you are doing it some way, you are doing it right.

 

Frequency of oil changes are far more important than brand of oil. Or, brand of TP.

 

And yes, I'm admittedly on my 2nd bottle of Merlot.

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1 hour ago, Adrenolin said:

There isn’t any break in oil used in most modern day engines today. Many are even shipped with semi synthetic already in them. (...)

These days both Yamaha and Honda give Mineral oil for the first 1000km/600miles.  During the first service they  change it to Synthetic. 

      * checked on my '18 CRF250L and '19 T700

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3 hours ago, r2r said:

These days both Yamaha and Honda give Mineral oil for the first 1000km/600miles.  During the first service they  change it to Synthetic. 

      * checked on my '18 CRF250L and '19 T700

Your local dealer over there might. Might even be a requirement or contractual obligation. Here, don’t know any dealer whose gonna put an expensive synthetic in a dirt, dualsport or adventure bike unless specifically requested by the owner or the bike requires it, and at a higher cost to the owner. 

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11 hours ago, Brownie said:

 

Yamalube Advantage

 

20 years, 100,000 miles, 5,000 hrs guarantee, register and service yourself with yamalube and yamaha filter. $20/gal $11/filter.

 

They are pretty sure that engines only need clean oil at the appropriate level.  So am I.  The program is also transferable.  I've owned bikes for 20 years, but who among us has put in 100,000 miles on a single bike?

 

Also, that traxxion parity video was so spot on.

 

There is always one in every crowd. LOL

 

My current ST1300 has 125,000 miles on it. Nothing but Rotella T6 and cheap car oil filters since 3000 miles. Runs great uses no oil. 5K OCI.

 

My Goldwing has 62,000 miles on it. Nothing but Rotella T6 and cheap car oil filters since 7000 miles. Runs great uses no oil. 5K OCI.

 

My Super Tenere has 51,000 miles. Nothing but Rotella T6 and cheap car oil filters since 3000 miles. Runs great uses no oil. 5K OCI.

 

Sold my ZX11 with 80,000 miles. I had 3K OCI's with 20W50 Castrol car oil and I used cheap car oil filters for about 40K of its mileage.

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Tenere 700 / Africa Twin / Goldwing / Super Tenere / WR250R / GS1000S / GT750 / H2 750

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8 minutes ago, whisperquiet said:

I use whatever is on sale.

 

 

573D7325-2EDD-4965-B5ED-7056E9D1239A.jpeg

Exactly

 

When I started using T6 many moons ago it cost $12.95 a gallon a Walmart. 

 

Tenere 700 / Africa Twin / Goldwing / Super Tenere / WR250R / GS1000S / GT750 / H2 750

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5 hours ago, PJS said:

I use motorcycle oil because of the wet clutch. Period.

Agree. Period.

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Ok, I have called the worlds leading oil expert, Dr Johans P Fudpuckerer to get the lowdown on motorcycle oil. 

 

Here is the best motorcycle oil mix for todays high performance motorcycles. This method is guaranteed to add longevity, MPH and Horsepower to your Tenere 700. 

 

1. Take two quarts of Shell Rotella T6 motorcycle oil.  Mix them into one container. 

 

2. Take one 32 ounce can of Bud light, now drink it. 

 

3. Take one redbull, and drink it as well. 

 

4. Now, take one 1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil, and drink it. 

 

5. Now, do 30 situps , stand up and then do 15 Navy Seal Burpee's.  

 

6.Now, drink one half of the premixed container of Shell Rotella T-6 oil.  

 

7. Put on some running shoes, stretch out for a bit and start jogging around the neighborhood to mix everything up. .

 

8. While jogging, start making "Vroom Vroom" motorcycle noises. (this step is essential). 

 

9. Be sure to jog at least one mile while going "Vroom Vroom". (If anyone asks what you are doing, tell em to leave ya the phuck alone, you are doing serious Tenere 700 business.) 

 

10.  Ok, now go back in the house, grab an egg out of the fridge, crack it open into a glass and drink it. 

 

11. Now, drink one more can of Bud light. 

 

12. Now, go drink the last remaining Shell Rotella T6.  

 

13. Do 33 jumping jacks, while doing some more Vroom Vroom noises. 

 

14. Open the oil fill hole on your motorcycle and grab a funnel. 

 

15. Now, pee into the oil hole, but be sure to fart loudly while peeing, to increase proper flow pressure. (be sure to waive at the neighbors) . 

 

16. Put the cap back on the oil filler hole.

 

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8 hours ago, Hogan said:

Read the sentence in full. It says not to use Diesel engine oils with a CD rating.

It says absolutely nothing about Diesel engine oils in general.

 

Cooking oil will not work! If anyone is reading that thinking of trying it, do not do it. You will destroy your engine within hundreds of miles!!!

 

Neither CD rated diesel engine oil or cooking oils contain the additives required to prevent overhead cam shaft wear. (caused by nitric acid in the blowby gasses and the shearing action of the camshaft & valve bucket).

 

@X PlaneIt is clear you do not understand the technicalities of oil in modern engines. I suggest you stop talking as you are spreading dangerous misinformation!

 

The T7 works with API SG grade oils that do not contain friction modifiers.

The T7 also works with JASO M* spec oils. JASO M* standards are motorcycle specific standards. The JASO spec exists specifically to address the wet clutch issue. If an oil is JASO MA/MA2 approved it is safe to use in the T7 regardless of what fuel type or what vehicle type it says on the bottle label.

@Hogan you misunderstand me. Please, let me please translate, literally, and directly say:
 

I was NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT recommending to use Cooking Oil. 

Agree, Cooking Oil hundreds of miles later will destroy engines (I was trying to use irony, and please don’t put irony in your engine either, lol).


Cooking oil is no way near correct or good enough like the recommended motorcycle oil will be.

And this and that is my point initially any oil even CD or non-CD diesel oils will seem ok but that I believe they are not as a good motorcycle oil. Yes non-motorcycle oils will work better than inappropriate cooking oil but still not work as good as motorcycle oils. 
 

I am recommending the use of MotorCycle oils that help all the gears inSide bike engine.
 

PS I have an mechanical engineering trade and have gone on to acquire a Master of Science Degree in Engineering.  Sorry that my tongue in check about cooking oil was not clear, but it highlights that it is not the right oil and proper oils will work better and I believe it is motorcycles oils that will work the best.

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3 hours ago, X Plane said:

@Hogan you misunderstand me. Please, let me please translate, literally, and directly say:
 

I was NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT recommending to use Cooking Oil. 

Agree, Cooking Oil hundreds of miles later will destroy engines (I was trying to use irony, and please don’t put irony in your engine either, lol).

 

Cooking oil is no way near correct or good enough like the recommended motorcycle oil will be.

And this and that is my point initially any oil even CD or non-CD diesel oils will seem ok but that I believe they are not as a good motorcycle oil. Yes non-motorcycle oils will work better than inappropriate cooking oil but still not work as good as motorcycle oils. 

I am recommending the use of MotorCycle oils that help all the gears inSide bike engine.
 

PS I have an mechanical engineering trade and have gone on to acquire a Master of Science Degree in Engineering.  Sorry that my tongue in check about cooking oil was not clear, but it highlights that it is not the right oil and proper oils will work better and I believe it is motorcycles oils that will work the best.

 

I use Motorcycles oils,

 

(not diesel oils, for Australian or American 18 wheeler T6 trucks) put what you want in, but as

I believe, motorcycles oils are the very best oil that you can use in T7 motorcycle, for me it’s motorbike oil all the time @Hogan

 

I am not commenting any more on this, a few cheap dollars here or there, diesel oil fight. Period.

A3845F4A-7480-48CE-831D-921C9E8065BF.jpeg

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What?! An oil discussion without Delvac?

D.JPG

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"Eternally, unavoidably, eventually, all paths will lead to the cemetery." Sentenced

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Early on in my driving years I thought I knew better than the engineers and strayed from the recommended oil on my high mileage Toyota.  Three engine rebuilds and two broken crankshafts later a mechanic pointed out that the oil cooler was gummed up. And likely not making it through bearing chases correctly. So oil has more chores than just metal on metal shear, or gear meshing, or clutch sticking, such as surface coating, and passages to get through.  
I have no problem using the recommended oil now.  I will look into who is making the name branded oil and buy  bulk sizes of the same specified Oil.  Regular changes, OCI, and branded filter if comparable in price to generic.  
$25 for a gallon of Yamalube and a $10 filter is tolerable after paying for motorx and KTM filter.  The reason I no longer bleed orange.  After the warranty period I may leave the branded parts behind if there is a significant savings.

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