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2 Wheel DynoWorks

T7 Dyno Graph Breakdowns

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2 Wheel DynoWorks

Once again, I meant to post this quite awhile ago! We've been swamped at the shop all season, and I think we're finally about to have some more free time as the winter rolls in. That should allow me a lot more time to share, and explain more in-depth, the results we've seen on the dyno for these bikes with our custom ECU flash and mapping!

 

932077686_Tenere700StockvStockTunedvMufflerTunedvHeaderTuned.thumb.jpg.f4548051acd302b0d977f52ed3eac845.jpg

 

So what are you looking at here? Well, let's dive in!

 

Run 1 is BONE STOCK. Stock mapping, stock intake WITH the snorkel, stock headers, and the stock muffler with the spark arrestor out to allow for us to get an accurate AFR signal with our sniffer down the pipe. 64.4hp/44.5tq PEAK output at the wheel.

 

Run 35, almost all of the bike is STILL STOCK. The only things we did here were the removal of the snorkel, because no matter what it truly needs to go. I know a lot of guys are worried about water intrusion, and it honestly is NOT as big of a deal as people are making it out to be. We, and our customers, have performed this modification on THOUSANDS (no exaggeration) of FZ/MT-07, XSR700 and Tenere 700 models without a single issue, ever. For those of you worried about water crossings, the stock snorkel only adds about 2 inches of extra height to the intake inlet, so if you're going to be submerging the bike THAT deeply across a body of water on a trail, we HIGHLY recommend removing the stock intake lid and filter and replacing it with a foam filter that allows for a water sock. There is ZERO difference in performance between the snorkel delete and stock intake and all of the foam filter/intake lid designs that we've seen on the dyno. All that matter is that 90 degree bend and rubber protruding into the airbox is no longer there. 65.9hp/46.6tq PEAK output at the wheel with BIG 4hp/4tq increases at the bottom end AND 4hp/2tq at the very top end. Obviously, as with all of our ECU flashing, the throttle response becomes MASSIVELY smoother and stronger throughout the entire RPM/throttle range, but this isn't possible to display on a WOT dyno graph.

 

Run 9, add virtually any muffler to the stock headers with a snorkel delete and you'll only see very modest gains. With our custom mapping, you'll see about a 1hp/0.5tq improvement throughout the entire RPM range and a 1.5hp increase at the VERY top end. The muffler on these bikes truly isn't a big restriction, which we were surprised to see with all of the chambers and baffling in the stock muffler. We have tested quite a few aftermarket mufflers now, and they all truly perform more or less identically to each other. There's some changes to the necessary fuel mapping for each one, but the final output is essentially unchanged. 67.1hp/47.0 PEAK output at the wheel.

 

Run 13, add headers to any quality high muffler with a snorkel delete and our custom mapping! BELOW 9k RPMs, there's very small gains (less than 1hp), but ABOVE 9K RPMs the power curve is maintained MUCH better to the limiter. You also save 12-14lbs, depending on which aftermarket headers you're using. We've tested a few of them, and once again there is virtually no difference in output between the aftermarket headers. 67.7hp/47.1 PEAK output at the wheel with an extra 4hp ABOVE 9k RPMs all the way to the limiter when compared to the stock headers. From bone stock to a full exhaust system, snorkel delete and our custom mapping, there is a massive 10whp improvement at the limiter (10,250 RPMs). 

 

Again, all of this is ONLY showing WOT performance at the wheel. Much of the results that your butt dyno will feel are even more significant than this displays, as the fuel and ignition mapping changes at WOT are actually much less dramatic than the low/mid range and part-throttle changes that we make to all of our custom mapping! 

 

Check out 2wheeldynoworks.com and don't hesitate to reach out to us if you guys have any questions. We're always happy to help!

 

-2WDW

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Canzvt

Very interesting! Can your mapping increase advance/fuel in the mid (5-7K rpms) to give a nice torque bump or do you increase advance (fuel accordingly) throughout the low end/mid to provide the seat dyno improvements? I'm looking at a replacement muffler to decrease the weight, but in 7500kms, I think I went over 9K rpms twice - you don't need to with where I ride, so a header pipe change is of little value apparently. Looking for that seat dyno improvement.


I think I have Yamaha disease...

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2 Wheel DynoWorks
12 minutes ago, Canzvt said:

Very interesting! Can your mapping increase advance/fuel in the mid (5-7K rpms) to give a nice torque bump or do you increase advance (fuel accordingly) throughout the low end/mid to provide the seat dyno improvements? I'm looking at a replacement muffler to decrease the weight, but in 7500kms, I think I went over 9K rpms twice - you don't need to with where I ride, so a header pipe change is of little value apparently. Looking for that seat dyno improvement.

Yup! At part throttle, from the bottom of the RPM range and through all of the midrange, the ignition mapping has been completely overhauled. Truthfully, it's some of the most non-sensical mapping we've ever seen from Yamaha for emission compliance. It is radically too advanced in some areas, and over-retarded in others! As for fuel mapping, that is all specific to each intake/exhaust combination.


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tenerecanada

I will just add that I went full snorkel delete with the MWR intake and had a few epic water crossing drops this season, no problems. Not a full dunk, but clearly the snorkel won't help you there. In my opinion you are worse off power washing your bike, than dropping it in the water when not letting go of the bike. 

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Canzvt
5 hours ago, 2 Wheel DynoWorks said:

Yup! At part throttle, from the bottom of the RPM range and through all of the midrange, the ignition mapping has been completely overhauled. Truthfully, it's some of the most non-sensical mapping we've ever seen from Yamaha for emission compliance. It is radically too advanced in some areas, and over-retarded in others! As for fuel mapping, that is all specific to each intake/exhaust combination.

Great. Just what I'm looking for. Can you recommend a muffler? Was kinda waiting for Camel to come out with theirs (as he is just down the road from me), but if there is a good one available now, I might have to jump on it. What's the turn around on an ECU program? I'm in Alberta.


I think I have Yamaha disease...

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Danot86

With run 35,

Does deleting the snorkel give you the 4hp/tq bump on its own? Or with a mapping as well?  

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Timo
12 hours ago, Danot86 said:

With run 35,

Does deleting the snorkel give you the 4hp/tq bump on its own? Or with a mapping as well?  

Same question , that’s unclear in the text. That would be too easy 🥳

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Lookiel

Pretty sure it’s mapped otherwise the snorkel removal might result in a too lean situation, at least that’s my understanding.

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Limey

I’m interested in all the other modifications but there is no way I’ll remove the snorkel.  2 inches is a lot when your in the middle of nowhere. 

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2 Wheel DynoWorks
16 hours ago, Danot86 said:

With run 35,

Does deleting the snorkel give you the 4hp/tq bump on its own? Or with a mapping as well?  

Both! The snorkel delete itself will get you a couple, but it also leans out AFRs, so fuel mapping adjustments are necessary and make up the rest of the improvement.

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Timo
On 10/30/2020 at 8:27 PM, 2 Wheel DynoWorks said:

Both! The snorkel delete itself will get you a couple, but it also leans out AFRs, so fuel mapping adjustments are necessary and make up the rest of the improvement.

After one test ride without snorkel I can’t really tell if it’s faster, but it feels nice and loose and definitely sounds faster 😄🤭

Curious for a fuel mapping.

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Tooph

Sweet, that's the info I was looking for . Only other comparison I'd be interested in is how an aftermarket muffler compared to a stock one with the end screen/baffle removed. 

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Rich TT
On 10/30/2020 at 7:27 PM, 2 Wheel DynoWorks said:

Both! The snorkel delete itself will get you a couple, but it also leans out AFRs, so fuel mapping adjustments are necessary and make up the rest of the improvement.

Out of interest @2 Wheel DynoWorks, how weak is the AFR across the rev range with the snorkel delete, header and free flowing can?

 

Would it be dangerous to run it like that without a remap?

 

Thanks

Rich

 

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2 Wheel DynoWorks
22 hours ago, Tooph said:

Sweet, that's the info I was looking for . Only other comparison I'd be interested in is how an aftermarket muffler compared to a stock one with the end screen/baffle removed. 

That's shown in Run 35 vs Run 9 on the graph. It's about a 1hp improvement with most aftermarket mufflers compared to the stock muffler without the spark arrestor in place!

 

-2WDW

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2 Wheel DynoWorks
21 hours ago, Rich TT said:

Out of interest @2 Wheel DynoWorks, how weak is the AFR across the rev range with the snorkel delete, header and free flowing can?

 

Would it be dangerous to run it like that without a remap?

 

Thanks

Rich

 

Rich,

 

Dangerous as in lean enough to cause some sort of immediate, catastrophic damage? No. 

 

Lean enough to reduce overall performance, reduce throttle response/transition smoothness, shorten the valve adjustment life and increase combustion temperatures beyond optimal conditions? Absolutely.

 

-2WDW

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Rich TT
39 minutes ago, 2 Wheel DynoWorks said:

Rich,

 

Dangerous as in lean enough to cause some sort of immediate, catastrophic damage? No. 

 

Lean enough to reduce overall performance, reduce throttle response/transition smoothness, shorten the valve adjustment life and increase combustion temperatures beyond optimal conditions? Absolutely.

 

-2WDW

Brilliant and thanks for that.

 

I'm definitely having an ECU reflash or Dynojet Power vision 3 soon. I'm undecided...

 

Thanks again for the reply.

 

Cheers

Rich

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Tazmool

I had my T7 flashed pretty early in the season, and I'm wondering, are there any improvements with the current flash? 
Is it worth sending in my ecu and having it updated to the latest version over the winter (bike is already stored for winter)

Tazmool

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2 Wheel DynoWorks
1 hour ago, Tazmool said:

I had my T7 flashed pretty early in the season, and I'm wondering, are there any improvements with the current flash? 
Is it worth sending in my ecu and having it updated to the latest version over the winter (bike is already stored for winter)

Tazmool

Email us at support@2wheeldynoworks.com with what intake/exhaust system you have on the bike. That way, we can search our records for your email address and what mapping was used!

 

-2WDW


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Mr.motarded

Is it possible for you guys to remove the netural map during tuning i want to remove clutch switch and jump it out cause i have an aftermarket clutch lever now but when i jump out switch now it stays in neutral map and runs lean also it keeps eco light from coming on. As of right now i just have no clutch switch so every time i start the bike it has to be in netural.  Also would like to lowere the fan turn on temp. 

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Marc

@2 Wheel DynoWorks , I would love to lose 14 pounds of exhaust weight plus gain 10 hp! Do you offer that combination as a performance package? If not, would you be willing to disclose the lightest exhaust system/combination you've tested to date?

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Yammybound88
On 11/3/2020 at 2:42 PM, Rich TT said:

Brilliant and thanks for that.

 

I'm definitely having an ECU reflash or Dynojet Power vision 3 soon. I'm undecided...

 

Thanks again for the reply.

 

Cheers

Rich

Interesting, I see they have a dozen tunes already for the T7.  Great option, thanks for the heads up.

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2 Wheel DynoWorks
14 hours ago, Mr.motarded said:

Is it possible for you guys to remove the netural map during tuning i want to remove clutch switch and jump it out cause i have an aftermarket clutch lever now but when i jump out switch now it stays in neutral map and runs lean also it keeps eco light from coming on. As of right now i just have no clutch switch so every time i start the bike it has to be in netural.  Also would like to lowere the fan turn on temp. 

The clutch switch needs to stay in place and functional for several reason. We can map the neutral mapping the same way we do the in-gear mapping, but you will still want to retain the clutch switch purely for safety of preventing starting in gear without the clutch pulled! If you jumper the connector, you lose this safety feature. 


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2 Wheel DynoWorks
12 hours ago, Marc said:

@2 Wheel DynoWorks , I would love to lose 14 pounds of exhaust weight plus gain 10 hp! Do you offer that combination as a performance package? If not, would you be willing to disclose the lightest exhaust system/combination you've tested to date?

We don't currently offer any Performance Packages for them on our website, as exhaust system availability has been a bit of a nightmare with covid this year. As for weight, you're splitting ounces between most of the popular header/muffler combinations out there. It all comes down to budget and appearance, as they all perform VERY similarly!


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Mr.motarded
8 hours ago, 2 Wheel DynoWorks said:

The clutch switch needs to stay in place and functional for several reason. We can map the neutral mapping the same way we do the in-gear mapping, but you will still want to retain the clutch switch purely for safety of preventing starting in gear without the clutch pulled! If you jumper the connector, you lose this safety feature. 

I understand the safety feature of the clutch switch but I dont like it I have jumped out the clutch switch on the last 4 or 5 motorcycles I've owned and never had an issue the T7 is the first bike I haven't been able to jump it out on due to the netural mapping. I usually remove the kickstand safety switch too. When riding off road the safetys are more of a hindrance then a feature.  

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MikeCMP

@2 Wheel DynoWorks When you guys advocate removing the snorkel, do you remove the entire snorkel, or can you just remove the part the protrudes waaaayyy into the airbox and leave some / all of the tube above the airbox. My non-expert opinion made me figure that the part protruding into the airbox was likely responsible for all the restriction since iots down past a good deal of the air filter. I like there being a "lip" of some kind on the top of the airbox to keep the little bit of stray water that makes it way there out. 

 

Took advantage of the black friday sale just need to decide when to take the ECU off and mail it in. Looks like riding season is just about done for me as we are getting a foot of snow in the next couple days 🙂

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