Installing heated grips

[Tazmool]

Hello everyone,

This is just a quick tip to help you get a general idea of doing this install yourself.
In this example I'm installing a set of 130mm Koso Apollo heated grips.

To remove the oem grips, you can cut them off, but its quite easy to get the OEM grips off with out damaging them and saving them for later.

Remove any bar protectors you have, and the bar-end weights.

To get the OEM grips off:
You will need a bit of heat (hair dryer, or heat gun set to low) will do. 

Then you will need a fairly stiff and thin metal rod.  A thin welding rod does the trick very well. 

Bend the rod 90 degrees, and insert it under (the warmed up) rubber grip, slowly push it all the way through (rod must be in the entire length of the rubber grip).
Next, Rotate the rod (spin the rod using the 90 degree bend you put in it) and the rod will travel all the way around the handlebar, lifting the grip from the bar (you will have to apply quite a few rotations on the rod before it makes it all the way around the handle bar)

Once you have one full revolution around the bar (leaving the rod in), try to remove the grip by pulling on the thick end (end closest to the switch gear)
The grip should move part of the way off quite easily, if it becomes stuck, rotate the welding rod until it travels a full rotation around the bar again, then try to get the grip off again.  

 

Repeat until the grip comes off.  It may take a few tries, but it will come off.

 

 

Installing the new grips is much easier than removing the old, just wet the bar using grip glue (the glue should come with the grips, also wear latex/nitrile gloves as the glue sticks to skin very well) and insert the grip to the desired position) 

 

Make sure you are happy with the heated grip power wire location as once the glue sets, you will not be able to adjust the angle.  The glue sets quickly, think about where you want the grips to be.
I prefer the wire pointing nearly straight down.

 

 

Repeat for the clutch side. 

 

Once you have both grips on, its time for a power-on test (make sure the grips actually work)
Just connect the grips to the controller and a power source, any 12v battery will do, a handy one is sitting under the front seat.

 

It takes a little while,

But the grips get nice and toasty!

 

Next, is to route the power cables and connect to the T700 harness. 
The routing is entirely up to you, make sure to leave enough slack around the steering head for the cables to not bind when you turn the handlebars fully left-right.  

 

Next, the 12v connector.

Yamaha has a nice connector for this purpose under the right (throttle) side fairing.

 

 

The bike uses a Sumitomo MT 090 3-pin 2.3mm Male/Female connector (yellow arrow is pointing to it)


(In Photo, Male side is on the LEFT, female side is on the RIGHT)
The Female end is for/on the bike harness side.

The heated grip wiring side (male side) connector housing is there as well and is for the grip wiring.
You will have to remove it from the bike harness, and pull out the little black plugs

 

 

At this stage you can just get an entire Female side plug (they are around $2-3)

 

Or just get the the male terminals and wire plugs (you would need 2 each, they are around 17 cents)

 

 

I had a bunch of the terminals around and used those and the plug housing that came with the bike.

 

Insert the terminals into the plug housing paying attention to the polarity/position of the terminals.
On the bike side, the black wire is ground, other two wires are both positive (you can use either positive wire)
On the grip side, you should have a black and red wires, ground and positive.

 

 

Connect the plugs, use some electrical tape to seal the grip cable and plug, and provide some strain relief for the cable. 

 

 

 

Test the grips again (you will need your ignition on for this), then re-assemble your bike.

 

Enjoy!

 

Tazmool

 

[Liquidape]

The stock grips come off really easy if you blow compressed air under the edge of them while pulling them off. 

[Tazmool]

I've read that as well, never tried it though, and didn't have a compressor handy when doing the job

Good tip though!

Tazmool

[TimmyTheHog]

Want to like your post but can't find the thumbs up....so here it is

[Sunchild714]

What did you use to get the bar ends off? I seem to not have the correct size allen wrench. What size did you use? Thanks

[JohnfromDP]

thanks for the write up......

[Tazmool]

To get the bar-ends off I used a Hex socket, I can't remember exactly off the top of my head, but I think it was a 12mm 1/2" drive.  Used a 1/2" drive ratchet, and both bar-end weights came off very easily. 
There was no lock-tite or any other thread-lock compound on the bar end weight threads on my bike.

 

 

Tazmool

[NvNick]

You can also stick something between the grip and bar and spray brake cleaner and it will slide off.

[Sunchild714]

Awesome! Thanks @Tazmool

[Stevey3737]

I used a bit of moovit spray and slipped right off a quick wipe and ready to rock with the new grip the stock ones were not glues in any way as I was dreading but I did glue my oem Yamaha heated grips on with some black sticky adhesive goop I had in the cupboard and they seem to be good with no issues

[JimmyTheHuman]

how do these compare to oxford? they look neater, i dont like the extra control of the oxford...but after freezing my hands off yesterday, even with winter gloves i need to do something.

[Offcamber]

I am curious if the connector on the left side of the bike is suitable for heated grips. I believe its a 10 AM fuse on the bike but the grips come with a 15Amp fuse inline. I noticed the gauge wire used to supply power to the grips is a heavier gauge than the wire used for the accessory plug on the bike.  

[Desert Mariner]

Mine are wired to one of the connectors - the factory accessory outlets shared on the same circuit for OEM heated grips and OEM accessory lights. I don't foresee a problem. The 10amp fuse should be plenty.

 

Dave

[kocaali]

On 9/7/2021 at 10:16 PM, Offcamber said:

I am curious if the connector on the left side of the bike is suitable for heated grips. I believe its a 10 AM fuse on the bike but the grips come with a 15Amp fuse inline. I noticed the gauge wire used to supply power to the grips is a heavier gauge than the wire used for the accessory plug on the bike.  

I have connected my Oxfords to the 3-way accessory connector on the left side (by using only 2 of the pins); no issues so far. 

[Offcamber]

I ended up sending both wires on the bike to the one wire of the heated grips. Seems to be working fine. I guess I'll find out when the fuse blows or doesn't. 

[PPiA]

92 is for Grip warmer (93 is for Fog light)

 

All four red/white cables feed from the same cable/fuse.

 

 

[Wizna]

My dealer fitted Oxford heated grips for my bike. It seems the oem Oxfrord glue doesn't fix in place the grips too much. 

Right one becomes out of position quite easily and I have to turn the grip clockwise (revs up direction) pretty often to put it back in normal position. When I turn the heat on then it becomes even worse, left one becomes almost completely loose - like having two throttles. 

 

Is it ok or should the grips be solidly in place? Should I let my dealer to fix this? 

[Samm]

46 minutes ago, Wizna said:

My dealer fitted Oxford heated grips for my bike. It seems the oem Oxfrord glue doesn't fix in place the grips too much. 

Right one becomes out of position quite easily and I have to turn the grip clockwise (revs up direction) pretty often to put it back in normal position. When I turn the heat on then it becomes even worse, left one becomes almost completely loose - like having two throttles. 

 

Is it ok or should the grips be solidly in place? Should I let my dealer to fix this? 

If they fitted them recently have them fix their poor installation….
 

Or if you want to save yourself some time and do it right, do it yourself. Search around here for good glues to use. The stuff Oxford supplies is just super glue, maybe the dealer just didn’t use enough.

[Landshark]

Renthal Grip Glue may work.  Google it up and check it out.  

[norton73]

I'm looking at installing heated grips on my bike soon.  I am thinking about replacing the bars while I am at it, right side is very slightly bent up after a fall at a stop.

 

I already have a G2 throttle tube made of aluminium, I have heard it said that it will need to be insulated from the grip, otherwise the grip will not get very hot.If this is true, why doesn't the left grip have the same issue, it is glued straight to the bar?

 

I already have Barkbusters on the bike and want to install a Kaoko Throttle Lock while I am at it.

 

Anyone else tried this combo and had success or failure and can comment?

Edited September 29, 2021 by norton73

[Liquidape]

42 minutes ago, norton73 said:

I'm looking at installing heated grips on my bike soon.  I am thinking about replacing the bars while I am at it, right side is very slightly bent up after a fall at a stop.

 

I already have a G2 throttle tube made of aluminium, I have heard it said that it will need to be insulated from the grip, otherwise the grip will not get very hot.If this is true, why doesn't the left grip have the same issue, it is glued straight to the bar?

 

I already have Barkbusters on the bike and want to install a Kaoko Throttle Lock while I am at it.

 

Anyone else tried this combo and had success or failure and can comment?

The left grip has a smaller ID and more insulation between the heating coils and the bar because of that extra thickness of the grip. 

[jdub53]

On 9/29/2021 at 9:00 AM, norton73 said:

I'm looking at installing heated grips on my bike soon.  I am thinking about replacing the bars while I am at it, right side is very slightly bent up after a fall at a stop.

 

I already have a G2 throttle tube made of aluminium, I have heard it said that it will need to be insulated from the grip, otherwise the grip will not get very hot.If this is true, why doesn't the left grip have the same issue, it is glued straight to the bar?

 

I already have Barkbusters on the bike and want to install a Kaoko Throttle Lock while I am at it.

 

Anyone else tried this combo and had success or failure and can comment?

I've installed heated grip wrap kits on several bikes before, and some of them came with a shrink wrap sleeve to install first on the left bar to isolate the heating element from the metal. None required for the throttle side, as all the OEM throttle tubes I've seen are plastic which doesn't conduct heat like metal. On those kits that didn't come with a shrink wrap sleeve, I just put a few wraps of electrical tape around the bar. 

 

Now that you have a metal throttle tube, it makes sense to me that the same advice should apply about isolating the heating element on that side from the metal underneath. 

Edited October 1, 2021 by jdub53

[jdub53]

As a follow-up to my post above, today I installed a Heat Demon heated wrap kit on my T7. The left bar heat shrink metal insulator is shown as it came out of the package, and then installed using a heat gun.

 

I've used these kits on several bikes, and they work great. I prefer the under-grip heater wraps because 1) I get to use the grips of my choice, and 2) I don't care for the larger diameter grips that come with the other kits. Easy installation with two heat levels, and they perform as well as the OEM heated grips on my GS.

 

[jdub53]

Forgot to add a pic of my Heat Demon switch installation. Instead of fabricating and installing a mount bracket, I saw the rubber blanking plug opposite the 12v power port on the dash and decided it would be a natural place for the heated grip switch. A location closer to my left hand would have been better, but this placement is out of the way and weatherproof.

 

Using my hydraulic press and a socket of the same OD as the back of the switch, a clean and centered hole was made in the plug. Wires were run to it and to the 3 pin connector under the right fairing panel for switched power. The switch has a nice interference fit, and was just pressed into the plug where it sits securely.  

 

 

  

Edited October 5, 2021 by jdub53

[roygilbo]

On 10/3/2021 at 3:15 PM, jdub53 said:

As a follow-up to my post above, today I installed a Heat Demon heated wrap kit on my T7. The left bar heat shrink metal insulator is shown as it came out of the package, and then installed using a heat gun.

 

I've used these kits on several bikes, and they work great. I prefer the under-grip heater wraps because 1) I get to use the grips of my choice, and 2) I don't care for the larger diameter grips that come with the other kits. Easy installation with two heat levels, and they perform as well as the OEM heated grips on my GS.

 

I have Heat Demons but they do not include the heat shrink metal insulator.  Is that imperative?