T7 charcoal canister removal

[LateApex]

I pulled the charcoal canister & hoses off my T7 today, this is what I took off.  I pulled the seat, all the front fairings & the tank off to do this.  

The two hoses to the right are vacuum lines the hook to the throttle bodies & the hose pointing down is the fuel tank overflow line.  I cut the canister rubber mount sleeve to remove the assembly from the bike, it is captured by the starter.  It could be removed intact, but the starter would have to be removed/loosened to do so.  Keep & reuse the little in line roll over valve & portion of line that runs to the tank vent.

 

Right throttle body vacuum nipple.  This is from the back of the bike looking forward, the cylinder head cover is at the top of the image.

 

Left throttle body vacuum nipple, the right one is obscured by the big vent line in this image.  Vent line is just a regular crankcase vent, there are no PAIR valve reeds or pump on the T7.

 

I ordered some 5mm silicon blanking caps off Amazon to put on the nipples, they should be here in a few days.  I'll update the post if the size is incorrect.  These vacuum ports ensure that no fumes vent out of the charcoal canister, only that fresh air is pulled in through the canister vent line that runs down in front of the countershaft sprocket.  Blocking them will not change the way the engine runs or it's tune.  They must be blocked or they will suck unfiltered air into the intake.  

 

I also ordered 1/4 Motion Pro gray tygon fuel line off Amazon to run from the fuel fill overflow.  I plan to route it to take advantage of the original canister vent line routing in front of the countershaft.  Be aware, if you overfill the tank or drop the bike, fuel will now run out of this hose possibly onto your foot/shifter/skid plate/etc.  Reinstall the roll over valve (note the UP cast into it) & attach the new hose to the bottom of it - Thanks Tenererian

 

 

End result is a big airy open space through the middle of the bike.  Just like all the cool kids try to get on their CB550 cafe bikes.  

 

Edited May 31, 2021 by LateApex
Updated for roll over valve inclusion

[mpatch]

When I pull the tank off that’ll get done. 
Perfect spot for a little tool tube type deal. 

[LateApex]

11 minutes ago, mpatch said:

When I pull the tank off that’ll get done. 
Perfect spot for a little tool tube type deal. 

I was thinking the same thing.  The unused motor mount in there would be a good place to build from.  It does get warm in there, wrenches might have to cool a little before they could be used.  Or I might try & fab up a piece of stainless tube that I can cook hot dogs in while I'm headed down the trail

[Burner]

That hot dog cooker idea is probably the single best thing I’ve gotten from this group. 
 

I removed my canister earlier today, 15 minute job. For those considering this, it can easily be done without removing the tank. Just plug the line coming off the throttle bodies.

 

 

[PaulCave]

Can you just run a piece of fuel line from the right throttle body vacuum nipple to the left throttle body vacuum nipple - removing the need for the silicone blanking caps ?

[Tenererian]

2 hours ago, Burner said:

I removed my canister earlier today, 15 minute job. For those considering this, it can easily be done without removing the tank. Just plug the line coming off the throttle bodies.

 

 

This is what I did. In addition to plugging the line from the throttle bodies the vent hose should be extended through it's original mounts cast into the front sprocket cover. Besides not having to remove the gas tank or fairings this also leaves the tip over valve intact. I was able to remove the canister without cutting the rubber so after removal I reached in there and cut the top and right side off leaving the part around the starter intact. This will act as a bottom pad for a future tool tube.

[JayD]

Why would one remove this? I learned what a charcoal cannister was 30 seconds ago

[LateApex]

9 hours ago, Burner said:

I removed my canister earlier today, 15 minute job. For those considering this, it can easily be done without removing the tank. Just plug the line coming off the throttle bodies.

 

I had to get under there for the new brake line that comes with Camel's high fender kit, killed two birds with one stone.  Once you're familiar with the 867 different types & sizes of fasteners that Yamaha uses on the bike, pulling the fairings & tank is only a 10 min job.  The tank is only held on by the two bolts on the bracket under the front of the seat.  

 

7 hours ago, PaulCave said:

Can you just run a piece of fuel line from the right throttle body vacuum nipple to the left throttle body vacuum nipple - removing the need for the silicone blanking caps ?

 

Absolutely, my OCD would keep me up at night knowing that there was 4" of unnecessary hose on the bike.  

 

7 hours ago, Tenererian said:

Besides not having to remove the gas tank or fairings this also leaves the tip over valve intact.

 

This is an excellent point, I had just assumed that the little canister was a one way valve for airflow & not a roll over valve.  I'm going to keep it & update the original post. 

[LateApex]

5 hours ago, JayD said:

Why would one remove this? I learned what a charcoal cannister was 30 seconds ago

 

Simplify & add lightness - Colin Chapman

 

F*ck the C.A.R.B. - LateApex

[BMRT7]

“Vacuum caps” are what you’re looking for. 
 

They’re available at any auto parts store and most hardware stores. 
 

 

[Dakota]

Aside from weight, does removing this have any impact on performance?

[LateApex]

5 hours ago, BMRT7 said:

“Vacuum caps” are what you’re looking for. 
 

They’re available at any auto parts store and most hardware stores. 
 

 

 

Those work, but rubber ones always seem to degrade over time, I prefer silicon.  I haven't had any luck locating them locally.

 

4 hours ago, Dakota said:

Aside from weight, does removing this have any impact on performance?

 

No.

[Firebolter]

On 5/30/2021 at 9:49 PM, Burner said:

That hot dog cooker idea is probably the single best thing I’ve gotten from this group. 
 

I removed my canister earlier today, 15 minute job. For those considering this, it can easily be done without removing the tank. Just plug the line coming off the throttle bodies.

 

 

I wrap mine in tinfoil, same for a corn dog and stick em in there. Works like a champ. I do this on my KTM500 EXC too! You can also stick them up front in the skid plate area on the right side. The exhaust heats up good in about 20 min.

[Burner]

34 minutes ago, Firebolter said:

I wrap mine in tinfoil, same for a corn dog and stick em in there. Works like a champ. I do this on my KTM500 EXC too! You can also stick them up front in the skid plate area on the right side. The exhaust heats up good in about 20 min.

Good God, this deserves its own thread! 

[duibhceK]

21 hours ago, LateApex said:

 

Those work, but rubber ones always seem to degrade over time, I prefer silicon.  I haven't had any luck locating them locally.

On previous bikes I would just cut a piece of the original hose and plug it with an oversized bolt with a zip tie around it for good measure.

[RideID]

For those of you that have done the canisterectomy, are your bikes still under warranty and do you have any warranty-related concerns with this mod? This seems like a commonsense thing to do, so i thought I'd ask.

 

Thanks for providing all of the information.

[Tenererian]

I was on a dual sport ride with my DRZ 400 a few months ago and came upon a couple of bikes stopped along the trail with the riders working on something. I stopped to see if I could help with anything and they asked me if I had a hammer to which I replied yes. I pulled my trusty hatchet from my luggage and walked over to see what the problem was. The stricken bike was a BMW  ADV bike and the carbon canister had come loose, fallen down, and wedged itself between the rear tire and the swingarm; that had to be a sudden stop! The rider was lucky this happened in loose sand and not on the highway at 60 or 70 mph. Anyway he aired down the tire and we cut a stout stick to use as an extension to beat the canister out of there using the blunt side of my hatchet. Once it was out of there they were able to air back up and continue the ride.

 

So now I refer to my hatchet as a BMW repair tool and I've found a nice place for it under the seat of my T7.

Edited June 4, 2021 by Tenererian

[Hobes]

Might be stupid question, but what's the original function of charcoal canister? I don't think european models even have one. It apparently filters out gas fumes? But why? This is some silly US-pollution law? Aren't there much more fumes released when you're actually refilling the tank? I'm baffled 

[duibhceK]

56 minutes ago, Hobes said:

 I don't think european models even have one.

My European model does have one, but it was an early demo bike. So I'm not sure if that's a general thing.

[Ichnusa]

1 hour ago, Hobes said:

Might be stupid question, but what's the original function of charcoal canister? I don't think european models even have one. It apparently filters out gas fumes? But why? This is some silly US-pollution law?

 

Also the European models have it. It's also silly EU-pollution law.

 

The charcoal-filled canister’s job is to absorb fuel vapor that would otherwise vent out to the atmosphere, causing pollution. Vapors trapped by the charcoal are released back into the engine through the purge valve and then burned.

[Hobes]

Yep, just checked and there it is. 

 

But still I'm kind of trying to understand the logic behind here. Does the tank it self generate so much vapour vs. filling up the tank. Have to read more about this after I get out from work. 

[LateApex]

2 hours ago, Hobes said:

Yep, just checked and there it is. 

 

But still I'm kind of trying to understand the logic behind here. Does the tank it self generate so much vapour vs. filling up the tank. Have to read more about this after I get out from work. 

Have you ever left your gas can in the sun?  

[ManBearPig]

The issue here is there is no purge valve. The canister just vents straight back into the throttle bodies full-time. I took mine off to get rid of the hard hot starts. 

[TeabagInsurance]

Before I get started on doing this, can someone confirm the diameter of the vacuum caps required and the fuel line? 5mm caps and 1/4" hose ended up fitting snugly @LateApex?

[LateApex]

On 6/14/2021 at 4:05 PM, TeabagInsurance said:

Before I get started on doing this, can someone confirm the diameter of the vacuum caps required and the fuel line? 5mm caps and 1/4" hose ended up fitting snugly @LateApex?

The 5mm caps were perfect & the 1/4 Motion Pro Tygon hose was identical to what was on the bike.