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Tenere 700 Exhaust options and pictures.


ChristosGR

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22 minutes ago, Sartene said:

Hey Doc,

 

i bought the sticker kit in Hamburg/Germany.

 

Look here: 

titelbild.jpg

Top Motorradhändler für Yamaha, Suzuki, Piaggio, Vespa etc. | Neu & gebraucht | Erstklassige Beratung | ✔ Jetzt Termin vereinbaren!

Ask for Félix and send him best regards from me. Then ask for the kit and I'm sure it will be able to help you. I was inspired by my own XTZ750 for this kit, because my XTZ 750 has been using this design since 1993. Felix created the design himself on the PC according to my wishes and at some point we thought my design was perfect and Félix then had it printed and glued on by specialist staff.

It is pure coincidence that Upshift has an almost identical kit on offer. When I had my kit done by Dumke&Lütt, I didn't know anything about Upshift's kit, I wasn't even aware of them as a European. But I admit that their T7 in blue looks really first-class. Good luck in Hamburg. Feel free to contact me again: Sartene add tenere.de

 

Best wishes, Andy

 

P.S. The picture shows my own XTZ 750 in my Design. And the guy, who is sitting on my bike….Stephane Peterhansel. The best Dakar Rider ever. Taken this picture 2003 at Treflé Lozerien/France….💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼

 

 

1EED28E1-0271-4542-93BC-6FA8F63ECDBD.jpeg

Many thanks Andy, I really appreciate your fast reply. I will try to contact Felix, hope we will find some solution for me. I bought my T7 rally edition 2 weeks ago and since I ever watched some sticker kits for the T7 I knew that this one (yours one) is the winner. Once again big THX for your help.

Best wishes Tomas

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Just recently came upon this one:


Learn more about Spark exhaust system GYA1602 for Yamaha Ténéré 700 (19-21): Euro5 DAKAR silencer with connecting pipe for HIGH lateral mounting

 

However, I think it sticks out to the side way to far. Thoughts?

 

I think I'll go for the MIVV dakar variant that's coming out soon:

honda-mivv-social.jpg

Mivv Dakar Inox exhaust for YAMAHA TENERE' 700 2019 > 2021 is designed to improve the aestethics, sound and performance of your bike.

 

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On 10/22/2021 at 8:03 PM, Ioan said:

We have changed the position of the Akrapovic system for more ergonomy and functionality. The main issue with the exhaust was solved. If you ride the bike offroad it is very important to change the original position of the exhaust no metter what tipe of exhaust you use. Mine is a stock Akrapovic exhaust modified to fit into the new place.  20211022_111120.thumb.jpg.9df94e49151c742299fde09ebb549d17.jpg

Hi. From where did u get the link pipe? I have the same bike but 2021 model. Hate to switch the Acra away.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Has anyone had issues with the Lextec can and link pipe making their bike run lean? I fitted one and its a difficult to start now, it fires up ok but you cant touch the throttle for at least 30 seconds from cold or it cuts out. I dont want to remap the thing if possible, just curious if anyone else has the same issue?

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8 hours ago, Poacher said:

Has anyone had issues with the Lextec can and link pipe making their bike run lean? I fitted one and its a difficult to start now, it fires up ok but you cant touch the throttle for at least 30 seconds from cold or it cuts out. I dont want to remap the thing if possible, just curious if anyone else has the same issue?

 

Hi Poacher,  I have a decat Akra header and MTC Can on my T7 and no mixture problems.  I doubt very much your problem is caused by the Can.  Before I settled on the MTC Can I tried a number of cans, with stock headders and the decat headers and no fuelling problems at all.  MTC = Max Torque is the best by the way IMHO, and weighs very little - I have used 2 already (long story) and love them.  I would endorse the carbon can 110%.

Peter

Derby England

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45 minutes ago, prwatts said:

 

Hi Poacher,  I have a decat Akra header and MTC Can on my T7 and no mixture problems.  I doubt very much your problem is caused by the Can.  Before I settled on the MTC Can I tried a number of cans, with stock headders and the decat headers and no fuelling problems at all.  MTC = Max Torque is the best by the way IMHO, and weighs very little - I have used 2 already (long story) and love them.  I would endorse the carbon can 110%.

Peter

Derby England

Cheers Pete, I have to say I was a little surprised with it running like it is lean. I have checked it over for leaks near the lambda sensor etc but it all looks good. I will run with it for a while and see if it gets any better or worse, I am just a little bothered that if its lean the thing will start pinking... its not like I can whip the plugs out to see whats going on!

I will check out the MTC cans 🙂

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Just now, prwatts said:

Hi Poacher - does your "Check Engine" Light come on, on the dash?

 

Hi, nope.. no engine light and no wires touched. Once it is up and running its fine... just the first cold start in the morning is a bugger. Cant touch the throttle at all for a while or it just pops and flames out.

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Does it pop and backfire when warm?  That would indicate a rich mixture.

Try disconnecting the O2 sensor - it will throw up a Check engine light, but if the bike runs well it will tell us where the problem is.

I'm guessing your bike is quite new.  Have you made any mods to the intake or changed the air filter?

 

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The confusing thing is that it happened when you changed the can.  We are fairly sure the can is not the reason, so it must be that something got disturbed when you changed the can.

Have you taken the bike on the road? Does it pop on overrun?  These bike shouldn't because the fuel is cut off altogether on zero throttle while running.  Causes that annoying jerk when you re-open the throttle.

 

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No, never pops on overrun or decelerating. When its warm its fine, it doesnt run hot either... it feels like the cold start is leaning too much (lambda sensor would interfere with that too but its fine when warm so lambda is ok). If I was to bet on it I would say it was an air leak upstream of the lambda, but it isnt! I will have a poke around the wiring to see if there is something lose but... I doubt it.

The bike has 1k miles, no intake mods, only the pipe.

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6 minutes ago, Poacher said:

No, never pops on overrun or decelerating. When its warm its fine, it doesnt run hot either... it feels like the cold start is leaning too much (lambda sensor would interfere with that too but its fine when warm so lambda is ok). If I was to bet on it I would say it was an air leak upstream of the lambda, but it isnt! I will have a poke around the wiring to see if there is something lose but... I doubt it.

The bike has 1k miles, no intake mods, only the pipe.

Perhaps the throttle body carbs need syncing?  I'm guessing.  @Poacher.  Try posting this in the technical section and see if we can help out that way.  

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10 minutes ago, Landshark said:

Perhaps the throttle body carbs need syncing?  I'm guessing.  @Poacher.  Try posting this in the technical section and see if we can help out that way.  

Throttle body synch may be a possibility... new throttle cables do stretch and bed in... maybe there is an issue there!

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57 minutes ago, Landshark said:

Perhaps the throttle body carbs need syncing?  I'm guessing.  @Poacher.  Try posting this in the technical section and see if we can help out that way.  

Throttle body synch may be a possibility... new throttle cables do stretch and bed in... maybe there is an issue there!

 

Well, I just went to start it up to video the problem and as is usually the case it made a complete liar out of me and purred like a kitten. It is +9C here today so not too cold... I will try again tomorrow and see if its an intermittent thing.

Thanks fellas

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I am planning to leave for Nepal from Sweden in august 2022 (if wars and covid restrictions allows it). So far I have added a few things to the bike that also added weight:

 

1. Barkbusters

2. Crashbars from Outbackmotortek

3. Rear rack from a guy called Ondra - (ordered from his Instagram)

4. Side racks from (ordered from his Instagram)

5. adjustable wiendshield from T7rally

6. Skid plate from AXP- moose in plastic 8mm (any thoughts about this?)

 

 

 

 

To reduce weight I will change the battery to lithium and add a tailtidy from B&B

 

Exhaust is also something I can change to reduce weight:

 

What do you recommend? I dont want it to be TOO loud (I will be doing alot of hours and miles) but a nice sound is always nice

 

Happy for answers

 

//Daniel

Edited by Daniel M
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38 minutes ago, Daniel M said:

I am planning to leave for Nepal from Sweden in august 2022 (if wars and covid restrictions allows it). So far I have added a few things to the bike that also added weight:

 

1. Barkbusters

2. Crashbars from Outbackmotortek

3. Rear rack from a guy called Ondra - (ordered from his Instagram)

4. Side racks from (ordered from his Instagram)

5. adjustable wiendshield from T7rally

6. Skid plate from AXP- moose in plastic 8mm (any thoughts about this?)

 

 

 

 

To reduce weight I will change the battery to lithium and add a tailtidy from B&B

 

Exhaust is also something I can change to reduce weight:

 

What do you recommend? I dont want it to be TOO loud (I will be doing alot of hours and miles) but a nice sound is always nice

 

Happy for answers

 

//Daniel

To be perfectly honest I wouldnt bother trying to lose weight for a big trip... its not like you will be rallying the thing. Ask yourself, can you handle the bike as it is now, if you can then whats the point losing 5kg?

I absolutely would NOT change the battery, Lithium batteries are not great for cold starts... you must know that living in Sweden (also, if you ever need a jump start you are screwed).

The exhaust I would change, but only for the shift away from the swing arm... anything will be lighter than standard but you will never know from the seat of your pants, guaranteed.

People get too fixated on weight, yet we are all different and the bike copes no problems. If there was one thing missing from your list it would be a heavier rear spring as luggage and spring sag over time will mean you run out of adjustment real soon.

If you making the perfect tool for the job means you add 10kg... so what! At least you will get the trip done!

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2 minutes ago, Poacher said:

To be perfectly honest I wouldnt bother trying to lose weight for a big trip... its not like you will be rallying the thing. Ask yourself, can you handle the bike as it is now, if you can then whats the point losing 5kg?

I absolutely would NOT change the battery, Lithium batteries are not great for cold starts... you must know that living in Sweden (also, if you ever need a jump start you are screwed).

The exhaust I would change, but only for the shift away from the swing arm... anything will be lighter than standard but you will never know from the seat of your pants, guaranteed.

People get too fixated on weight, yet we are all different and the bike copes no problems. If there was one thing missing from your list it would be a heavier rear spring as luggage and spring sag over time will mean you run out of adjustment real soon.

If you making the perfect tool for the job means you add 10kg... so what! At least you will get the trip done!

Well Said! Thanks for slapping me - makes sense! 

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Totally agree.
I added also things and when i can i change things not so to reduce the weight but to keep what i add as low as possible.
I changed my crashbars form a high model to a low model that is about 1,8kg lighter, i have rackless luggage. There is lighter stuff than Mosko Moto but i know this is very durable.
The biggest weight i added is probably the toolkit and just ordered a set of lightweight wrenches from Eastbound but it's all minimal. If you work on your bike do it with that toolkit so you know you have what you need and that is works and also what you don't need to leave it out.
The best you can do is keep the volume down by being smart what you take with you and invest in good camping gear if you plan to camp.
For the evenings take one or 2 pair of hiking pants, very lightweight and small to pack and it dries quick (wash the dirty one at the moment you arrive at your overnight location and wear the second one). Remember that you wear the riding gear all day so the evening rear don't need so much changing. That also goes for shirts and sweaters, look for synthetics.
Sleeping bags get can get quite big, maybe this is an option for you too.

Even if you don't plan on camping that liner is a nice one for when the place you end up turns out to be a bit dodgy.

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2 minutes ago, Ray Ride4life said:

Totally agree.
I added also things and when i can i change things not so to reduce the weight but to keep what i add as low as possible.
I changed my crashbars form a high model to a low model that is about 1,8kg lighter, i have rackless luggage. There is lighter stuff than Mosko Moto but i know this is very durable.
The biggest weight i added is probably the toolkit and just ordered a set of lightweight wrenches from Eastbound but it's all minimal. If you work on your bike do it with that toolkit so you know you have what you need and that is works and also what you don't need to leave it out.
The best you can do is keep the volume down by being smart what you take with you and invest in good camping gear if you plan to camp.
For the evenings take one or 2 pair of hiking pants, very lightweight and small to pack and it dries quick (wash the dirty one at the moment you arrive at your overnight location and wear the second one). Remember that you wear the riding gear all day so the evening rear don't need so much changing. That also goes for shirts and sweaters, look for synthetics.
Sleeping bags get can get quite big, maybe this is an option for you too.

Even if you don't plan on camping that liner is a nice one for when the place you end up turns out to be a bit dodgy.

Thanks for the tip!! You think a low crashbar would do the job?

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1 minute ago, Daniel M said:

Thanks for the tip!! You think a low crashbar would do the job?

I went for the Heavy Duty Enduro, here is a comparison between the Enduro (the low one) and the Adventure (high version).

 

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8 hours ago, Poacher said:

To be perfectly honest I wouldnt bother trying to lose weight for a big trip... its not like you will be rallying the thing. Ask yourself, can you handle the bike as it is now, if you can then whats the point losing 5kg?

I absolutely would NOT change the battery, Lithium batteries are not great for cold starts... you must know that living in Sweden (also, if you ever need a jump start you are screwed).

The exhaust I would change, but only for the shift away from the swing arm... anything will be lighter than standard but you will never know from the seat of your pants, guaranteed.

People get too fixated on weight, yet we are all different and the bike copes no problems. If there was one thing missing from your list it would be a heavier rear spring as luggage and spring sag over time will mean you run out of adjustment real soon.

If you making the perfect tool for the job means you add 10kg... so what! At least you will get the trip done!

About the rear spring: I am a light rider (70 kg, 155 pounds), I will travel with maybe lets say 15 kg (30 pounds), How will the bike handle with a heavier rear spring and a light rider a´compared with a heavier rider? To stiff?

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