auxillary lights- how/ where to fit the switch

[DazR]

Yep that is correct.

[orbsurfer]

I installed a set of Denali DR1 LED auxiliary lights and placed an upgraded switch (high - off - low vs. of on - off) for this kit on the left hand side of the handlebar.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 11, 2021 by orbsurfer

[Grizzymann]

I came across an interesting DRL LED harness today.  It looks like it should work with the T7 high beam.  

Quote

White wire connects to headlight (when headlight turns on at nights, the brightness of DRL light will decrease by half. )

I take this to mean that when the low beam is on and the yellow wire is at +12v it should be at 50% brightness, then go to 100% when the high beam comes on with +0.8v.  Backwards of how it's intended, but should work for us.

 

DRL LED Harness

Simpler 5A Harness

Edited February 27, 2021 by Grizzymann

[SpankyPineapple]

Waterproof index finger switch right beside the pass light trigger.  Did have to pop the switch housing apart, drill the hole and then solder the switch, but looks super clean, no having to reach a thumb switch.  

[simonr]

On 10/15/2020 at 4:29 PM, slakdawg said:

 

I would like to use this approach for installing 2 4XLED lights.

 

http://4xled.com/shop/product/sm4/

 

Anyone here familiar with these?

 

In the description it states: "built in high effectivity 2-stage energy converter (day light/full power)".

Apparently this convertor dims the light when continuous positive load (?).

Don't know if this makes sense, I cannot find precise technical info.

 

Would this interfere with the Skene dimmer in Slakdawg's setup?

Or would this built-in dimmer even make things easier and render the Skene dimmer obsolete?

 

I am a noob in electrics, any help/insights much appreciated!

[Grizzymann]

Those look pretty promising. Sounds like it has a 3 pin connector that will want two positive and one ground wire. One positive and the ground will come from the aux plugs tucked in the fairing.  

You should be able to just tap the high beam positive wire for the other one.

 

This should dim them when you're on low beam.

 

You don't need a Skene or relay if I'm understanding these correctly.   Post a picture of the instructions that come with them if you end up ordering them.

[BMRT7]

On 11/5/2020 at 9:27 PM, Goldentaco said:

Well since you've all done  the legwork to get the lighting controls to work triggering off the high beam I guess I'll add this to make it more confusing lol.

 

I'm in the process of wiring in a pair of Baja Designs S2Pro using their Squadron/S2 Motorcycle Skene Dimmer Kit.  As it seems everyone else has worked around the Odd High beam operation by adding a relay , I have confirmed you don't actually need to do that.  This harness and the Skene IQ-275 will work with no separate relay if you think outside of the box.

 

For a description of the BD harness and how they prewired the Skene IQ-275, you can look over this thread near the end post #37: 

A couple things to note: 

-OP in that thread didn't understand how BD prewired the harness.

-BD's included instructions ARE correct.

-BD's description of the harness on their website does not clarify how it's prewired and is very confusing when they include the Skene wiring instructions. NO wonder the guy had trouble sorting it out.  If you are comfortable working with this type of elecrical circuitry, you can figure it out.  But as a plug and play it should be clearer.  Again, the included instructions work on most bikes and would have on that 1200 GS.

Baja Designs Squadron Motorcycle Skene Dimmer Kit Install | Page 2 | Adventure Rider

---

I'll look at my bike when I get home and hopefully can report back with some helpful info

 

 

 

So how do you accomplish this with no relay?  You don't use the white wire to connect to the headlight (you'll use it to program the Skene controller, after that it gets taped up).  Use the Skene Yellow wire.  You can then program the function of the Skene yellow wire to provide X% light output on position "C" for Low beam operation and program position "A" for full output. 

Once you connect the Skene yellow wire to the OEM High beam wire ( Yellow) you gain the ability to switch between two output levels.  I don't need three different output levels and don't plan to use these for conspicuosity.

 

So what functions will my setup retain?

-The BD harness assumes you will wire the kit directly to the battery and will turn on or off the aux lights.  They combine the main +12v and the switched +12v on the same lead so it's possible to leave the lights on accidentally.  Not good.  I have a PDM60 installed so I'm using that to supply a switched +12v to the BD harness and drive the S2Pros.  Just removing the BD installed fuse holder and ring terminal.

 

-Lighting control: I can turn the lights ON or OFF as needed with the included switch. I typically will not need them unless splitting lanes ( for visibility) or at night to avoid the critters.

 

-Aux light functions: On Low I programmed output at 50% and High beam 100%.

 

I think the confusing part is where the Skene (Optional) switch for the Yellow wire says it needs Ground, +12,  and disconnected.  If you think about it like @sebti described, voltage whether +12v or 0v is only a difference in electrical potential between two points.  The IQ-275 really looks for a "High" signal (+12v...or even +10v), a "Low" signal ( Ground or 0v), and None ( Disconnected).  So the controller treats the 0.88v on the OEM High Beam wire the same as a Ground connection.  Internally it's sensing the connections on two different circuits and translates the resulting input to the desired action.

 

Good Luck.  The struggle is real.

 

J

 

 

Confirming this works as well.

 

I've since deleted the relay and just run all the time at 10% and 100% when high beams are on. The only functionality I lost was having a 3 position switch that I previously used to set DRL function brightness to 10/20/50%. That's been replaced by a switch that can turn the lights off if desired. Much cleaner setup. 

[Goldentaco]

13 hours ago, simonr said:

 

I would like to use this approach for installing 2 4XLED lights.

 

http://4xled.com/shop/product/sm4/

 

Anyone here familiar with these?

 

In the description it states: "built in high effectivity 2-stage energy converter (day light/full power)".

Apparently this convertor dims the light when continuous positive load (?).

Don't know if this makes sense, I cannot find precise technical info.

 

Would this interfere with the Skene dimmer in Slakdawg's setup?

Or would this built-in dimmer even make things easier and render the Skene dimmer obsolete?

 

I am a noob in electrics, any help/insights much appreciated!

To Clarify: Dipped beam = Low beam.  I'm used to Low/High so I had to look it up.

 

---This is for their Enduro wiring kit---

http://4xled.com/shop/product/sm4-kit-enduro/

 This is what I found on their site:

( in " " is directly from their site.  The rest I found in my head)

 

 

"2 lights with wiring for 4-stroke hard enduro bikes (with direct current in the lighting circuits), and for all motorcycles with classical electrical installation. The wiring uses the original high beam switch for switching the full power on.  The 2-position switch included in the wiring, has day-night function. In the day position, the daylight mode is on, and the dipped beam is off. In the night position, the SM4 lights are off and the dipped beam is on. The full power can be activated in both day or night position, with the original high beam switch.  This wiring will be connected to the wires behind the original lamp only, no connections to the rear of the motorcycle are needed. The included tap connectors require no special tools, just universal pliers. The cables are short, for high mounting place of the lights, on handlebar or on the light cover."

 

The 2 stage energy converter does what you are suggesting...sort of  It appears that in Daylight mode the 2 Pos switch turns off the Low beam and runs the Aux lights in reduced power mode.  If you flip High beam on it would go to full power.  With Daylight mode off, Low beam is on and the Aux lights are off but would go to full power with High beam switch.

 

The 2 stage converter handles the dimming function and the 2 position switch routes power either to the Low beam OR the Aux lights.

 

Personally, for our bikes you would NEVER run without the Low beam on.  You would not use that functionality and our lighting connections don't work with this setup in which case you would need to go the relay route OR the way I described with the Skene IQ-275.  The Skene route is cleaner and you can adjust the output at 2 or 3 levels depending on how you wire it in.  I don't think you want the Enduro wiring kit.

 

---Basic Kit info below---

http://4xled.com/shop/product/sm4-kit/

 

 

IF you go with these lights I think you would want their basic kit with 3 position switch which does the Daylight, Off or Full power.  Wired direct to battery or a Switched +12v.  If you want to integrate them in so your OEM Low and High beam control the lights I think you would use the Skene controller and leave 3pos switch in High/Full power position.  I don't know what their lights are looking for signal wise from the 3 position switch but I would guess it's a simple +12v to one of 2 circuits.  One designed for reduced output ( Daylight mode) and the other for full power.  You would probably find the Light connector on their harness has 3 wires. +High, +low, - with each light containing the control circuitry for dimming.

 

 

They're a cool setup but I think you may need to clarify how you want them to operate and how you expect to turn them on and off.  

 

J

 

 

 

Edited March 16, 2021 by Goldentaco

[simonr]

10 minutes ago, Goldentaco said:

They're a cool setup but I think you may need to clarify how you want them to operate and how you expect to turn them on and off.

 

Thanks for your thorough analysis, @Goldentaco.

 

I am just looking for a simple setup for without any additional switches or buttons. So the aux lights always on with reduced power (DRL) and full power when the stock high beam switch is enabled.

Simple as that... if I only knew how.

[Goldentaco]

4 minutes ago, simonr said:

 

Thanks for your thorough analysis, @Goldentaco.

 

I am just looking for a simple setup for without any additional switches or buttons. So the aux lights always on with reduced power (DRL) and full power when the stock high beam switch is enabled.

Simple as that... if I only knew how.

Ok.  Would you be ok with just using their 3 pos switch?  That's the easiest.  However getting switched power for these is trickier.  Each light draws 2.5 amps so that eliminates using the OEM Aux plugs up front for switched power I think they're 2a.  I think the OEM Heated grip plug is 10a.  I'll have to check at home. Or someone can confirm.

 

Eastern Beaver has a 4 Circuit solution kit that wires to battery and provides 1 Unswitched circuit for battery charging and 3 switched circuits with capacities up to 10a per circuit.  They make OEM plugs to use the OEM Aux connectors up front to turn the relay on or off for switched power.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Bike_Specific/Tenere_700/4CS/4cs.html

Kit includes fittings to crimp onto the 4xled harness.

 

For instructions on how to crimp these check out this thread:

 

 

That all just gets you Switched 10a capable power.  The wiring to the headlight assy doesn't give +12v with High beam on, that's why we have to do all this electrical f_kry.  SO to be on with bike and trigger off High beam you're looking at the Relay or Skene dimmer.

 

J

[Grizzymann]

@GoldentacoDo you know if feeding the SM4 0V or +12V will cause them to dim?  If +12V on their secondary input causes them to dim then you could just tap into the high beam wire since it sounds like they have the dimmer built in.  

 

No need for a relay, Skene, or multi position switch.  Just take power from the 10A heated grips plug and control them with the high beam switch.

[Goldentaco]

32 minutes ago, Grizzymann said:

@GoldentacoDo you know if feeding the SM4 0V or +12V will cause them to dim?  If +12V on their secondary input causes them to dim then you could just tap into the high beam wire since it sounds like they have the dimmer built in.  

 

No need for a relay, Skene, or multi position switch.  Just take power from the 10A heated grips plug and control them with the high beam switch.

 

I couldn't find an actual schematic but I am guessing they use simple +12v on either input at the light and the internal circuitry dims a particular input because the lights they sell are all the same and their 2 or 3 position switches and wiring kits work with all their lights.  If you look at the pic of the Enduro Kit and the description of the Daylight mode you'll see the 2 pos switch opens the Low beam circuit ( White and Grey wires) in Daylight mode and must connect +12 from Low beam to one of the lights inputs ( assumed since there's no schematic). If Daylight mode is off, the Low beam is connected vis the 2 pos switch and the SM4s get no +12.  This switch is probably a SPDT with NO and NC contacts. So it opens one and closes the other.  As the high beam is not activated, it has no +12 on it so the power in Daylight mode must be coming from the Low beam wire.  In High/full power mode the light switches to full power and overrides low power ( DRL) mode.  In the switch the "common" or com would be the White wire with +12 and Daylight mode would be one contact, Daylight mode off would be the other.

 

Similar to this but with only 2 positions: Red low, Blue High or vice versa.

 

 

On the 3 pos switch harness it could work as you are saying but the lights would not be interchangeable with the enduro kit. So that's why I think it's just +12 on one of two inputs at the light.  The 3 pos switch just has a position for off where the 2 pos has one contact always closed.

 

 

 

 

J

 

Edited March 17, 2021 by Goldentaco

[Goldentaco]

@simonr @Grizzymann

I emailed 4Xled regarding the function of Daylight mode vs Full power and what the lights want to see.

Their response in Quotes below are in response to my question below in Italics:

 

Hello,

 

I'm looking into your SM4 basic kit and I am trying to find out if it will work with my Yamaha Tenere 700. and how I would want to control it.  The headlight circuit is not normal like on an enduro bike with full power at the wiring harness.  I have a specific question.   On your SM4 what input to the lights is the internal controller looking for?  It sounds like +12v to either with one of them is required with one being designated as the Daylight mode input.  Is that correct?

 

" Hello,

take care about connection of + and -, the blue wire must be connected to minus!  Brown to plus gives full power, brown and black to plus gives daylight power.

 

Regards

 

Marek "

Wire colors were the light connector colors, not the wiring kit colors.

 

Bear with me here, but this partly answers the question of : What is the light looking for to dim or go full power?  As I suspected, it's +12 on one or both of two connections.

 

But I am still confused by their answer as the wiring diagrams they provide on the site don't seem to accomplish what was described in the email.  The Basic kit seems like it does but the Enduro I have no idea how they achieve what they state because in Daylight mode Marek says Brown and Black need +12.  IF so how does one then add +12 from the high beam to make full power?

 

I emailed for more details clarifying.  I'll post up what comes back.

 

Short of ordering two wiring kits and a pair of lights and testing it out, this is the extend of help I can provide.  I asked for a wiring schematic so we'll see what comes of that.

 

J

[simonr]

@Goldentaco asked a similar question and this is what I got from them:

 

“Hi,  the daylight must be off at night, so you need at least a switch for daylight on-off (you don't need to mount it on handlebar)  and a + from high beam to activate the full power.  Regards  Marek“

[Goldentaco]

15 minutes ago, simonr said:

@Goldentaco asked a similar question and this is what I got from them:

 

“Hi,  the daylight must be off at night, so you need at least a switch for daylight on-off (you don't need to mount it on handlebar)  and a + from high beam to activate the full power.  Regards  Marek“

Sounds like the Enduro kit.

 

This guy has a review of his install:  That switch is HUGE.

 

 J

[simonr]

Funny, allroadmoto is also my supplier for bikeparts. Highly recommended for ADV parts and installations in Belgium BTW.

 

I contacted him for more tech info / drawings and a quote for the installation.

 

more info soon, hopefully

[Goldentaco]

I got a response back after requesting more detail or a schematic.

 

Where the cables come together in their wiring kit there's a relay and some diodes.  At this point I don't care to reverse engineer it any more.  I think we've gathered enough info to figure out that the kit will work but will need a relay or Skene if you want to trigger off the stock High beam switch.

 

 

J 

[2-Wheel Wnderer]

Hello all, just posting my end results in hopes it saves someone else immense headache. I installed a set of Baja Designs S2 Pro lights along with a skene dimmer. This allows me to run at 20% capacity while low beam is active and 100 capacity while high beam is activated. It was required to install a second relay to cope with the voltage drop across the lights when switching from low to high beam. I also fed my lights and skene dimmer off of a pdm 60. Allowing a fuse point and also a 6 second delay to ease load draw on battery at start up. Good luck to all! 

[doniv]

On 3/1/2021 at 11:24 PM, SpankyPineapple said:

Waterproof index finger switch right beside the pass light trigger.  Did have to pop the switch housing apart, drill the hole and then solder the switch, but looks super clean, no having to reach a thumb switch.  

 

@SpankyPineapplecan you please share the details of this switch? This looks super neat and stealth; I would love to replicate it. I ordered a Pico waterproof toggle switch from Amazon, but it's too large. 

Edited September 2, 2021 by doniv
Typos

[SpankyPineapple]

On 9/1/2021 at 8:47 PM, doniv said:

 

@SpankyPineapplecan you please share the details of this switch? This looks super neat and stealth; I would love to replicate it. I ordered a Pico waterproof toggle switch from Amazon, but it's too large. 

I used this switch:

Amazon Switch

 

The terminals on it are fairly small, but I soldered the wires as close to the switch housing as possible, then just used some snips to get the back as slim as possible.  There's definitely enough room in the housing, and it took some fiddling with the wires to get everything tucked in and not interfering with the signal switch mechanism. A little dab of silicone grease on the switch helps the rubber cover screw on as well. 

 

 

[doniv]

Thanks, @SpankyPineapple! I actually ended up ordering another switch before you replied - 

Push Button Switch Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076RLL1KM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

It's not a toggle switch but a push button switch. However, it's got a nice housing and it fit perfectly inside the switch cluster. I've now got my Baja Designs S1 lights running directly off of the battery. If this switch dies on me I have 4 spare that I can swap with relative ease. Thanks for the awesome idea!

 

[SpankyPineapple]

On 9/7/2021 at 12:04 AM, doniv said:

Thanks, @SpankyPineapple! I actually ended up ordering another switch before you replied - 

Push Button Switch Waterproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076RLL1KM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

It's not a toggle switch but a push button switch. However, it's got a nice housing and it fit perfectly inside the switch cluster. I've now got my Baja Designs S1 lights running directly off of the battery. If this switch dies on me I have 4 spare that I can swap with relative ease. Thanks for the awesome idea!

 

 

Looks sweet! If you wanted it fused/switched with the bike I used one of the free sumitomo connectors that the bike comes with.  Had to buy the extra connector, but its pretty easy, looks pro, and uses factory fuse.

Edited September 8, 2021 by SpankyPineapple

[MVDBR]

Hey there fellas, I tried sebti's method of wiring the relay differently and was super stoked that it worked for me. Anyway I made a video of what I did, so hopefully it might help someone out there a bit by breaking it down and showing it in action. Gave full credit to the mad Frenchman Cheers

 

 

[tenerecanada]

1 hour ago, MVDBR said:

Hey there fellas, I tried sebti's method of wiring the relay differently and was super stoked that it worked for me. Anyway I made a video of what I did, so hopefully it might help someone out there a bit by breaking it down and showing it in action. Gave full credit to the mad Frenchman Cheers

 

 

 

Hey, welcome to the forum pal - glad you joined us. Excellent video - thanks for putting that together.

[doniv]

On 9/8/2021 at 1:18 PM, SpankyPineapple said:

 

Looks sweet! If you wanted it fused/switched with the bike I used one of the free sumitomo connectors that the bike comes with.  Had to buy the extra connector, but its pretty easy, looks pro, and uses factory fuse.

 

I had thought about it, but decided against it so I could run the lights even with the key off. Thanks for the tip!