What have you done for your T7 today?

[Wintersdark]

18 hours ago, DonaNobisPacem said:

 

I've had pretty much the same experience. Hell, my turn signals are still completely fine even though they're kinda touching the exit. It's just that there's one isolated case I've had where I went for a long ride and the can was not just warm, but actually hot. Not sure if it's plastic melting hot, but hot enough to be painful if you touch it for a couple of seconds. And I'd rather not risk it when I can just buy a heat shield and not worry about that potential disaster at all.

Yeah, I get that.  Do you run yours with the baffles in, or out?  I'm kind of curious, as I've never had mine get hot, but on the other hand I've only ridden mine in low temps (and mostly well below freezing) having installed it fairly late in the year, and this is Alberta. 

 

I've actually got a heat shield here (a Giant Loop heat shield), purchased originally  for the stock exhaust as it got VERY hot, maybe I should just pre-emptively slap it on.

[DonaNobisPacem]

3 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

Yeah, I get that.  Do you run yours with the baffles in, or out?  I'm kind of curious, as I've never had mine get hot, but on the other hand I've only ridden mine in low temps (and mostly well below freezing) having installed it fairly late in the year, and this is Alberta. 

 

I've actually got a heat shield here (a Giant Loop heat shield), purchased originally  for the stock exhaust as it got VERY hot, maybe I should just pre-emptively slap it on.

 

I run mine with both baffles out, since it's only slightly louder than stock. And the ambient temps probably factor in some way too, it doesn't take much for a black painted piece of steel to get real hot here especially in direct sunlight.

[Wintersdark]

 

Installed the Aliexpress rear rack with the help of the Good Dog (who was not happy to be in the garage when it's -30).  It's solid enough, though the welds are pretty ugly, and once it's all bolted up nice and tight it sits straight. The mounts between the rails and the actual rack platform where all uneven, however.  I initially bolted up the rails, then tried to attach the platform, but that was just not going to happen, not even close to lining up.  Had to bolt the platform on loosely, then loosely attach the rails to the bike, then basically torque the whole thing together gradually to make it fit right.  Well, that's what you get when you spend $50 on a rear rack.  Sadly, nobody else seemed to have one that fit my requirements otherwise (that is, no drilling plastics, no use of the under-tail mount bolts as there's already so much going on there with the heed rear bars and muffler, handy grip points to lift the bike.  I really like how they work with the Heed bars, and follow lines that work with the rear side panels.  Should REALLY ease lifting the bike in the future - something I hoped the Heed bars would do, but if the bike is on it's side, the Heed bars are generally pressed into the ground and not reachable. 

 

[Burnsey]

3 hours ago, Wintersdark said:

 

Installed the Aliexpress rear rack with the help of the Good Dog (who was not happy to be in the garage when it's -30).  It's solid enough, though the welds are pretty ugly, and once it's all bolted up nice and tight it sits straight. The mounts between the rails and the actual rack platform where all uneven, however.  I initially bolted up the rails, then tried to attach the platform, but that was just not going to happen, not even close to lining up.  Had to bolt the platform on loosely, then loosely attach the rails to the bike, then basically torque the whole thing together gradually to make it fit right.  Well, that's what you get when you spend $50 on a rear rack.  Sadly, nobody else seemed to have one that fit my requirements otherwise (that is, no drilling plastics, no use of the under-tail mount bolts as there's already so much going on there with the heed rear bars and muffler, handy grip points to lift the bike.  I really like how they work with the Heed bars, and follow lines that work with the rear side panels.  Should REALLY ease lifting the bike in the future - something I hoped the Heed bars would do, but if the bike is on it's side, the Heed bars are generally pressed into the ground and not reachable. 

 

 

I really don't like how the bolts sit on the top.

 

They're begging to injure you.

[Burnsey]

Rather pleased with myself today.

 

Fitted the Denali S4, mounted with the specific Denali bracket. Now to wire them in and put the bike back together.

 

I removed the connections from the Oxford grips and navigation, as I wasn't happy with the cable routing, so will do them all together.

 

Decided not to fiddle with the bike electrics, so the lights will work on a two position switch (50%/100%) on the handlebars and the only bike connection is a switched live for the dual intensity to work properly and not risk a battery drain if I forget to turn off - doubtful, but better safe than sorry.

 

Also added some screen stickers from Crispy Designs.

 

That is that now and if I can complete the wiring tomorrow, we've a weekend of green lanes waiting for us.

 

 

Edited January 6, 2022 by Burnsey

[bth2]

1 hour ago, Burnsey said:

Rather pleased with myself today.

 

Fitted the Denali S4, mounted with the specific Denali bracket. Now to wire them in and put the bike back together.

 

I removed the connections from the Oxford grips and navigation, as I wasn't happy with the cable routing, so will do them all together.

 

Decided not to fiddle with the bike electrics, so the lights will work on a two position switch (50%/100%) on the handlebars and the only bike connection is a switched live for the dual intensity to work properly and not risk a battery drain if I forget to turn off - doubtful, but better safe than sorry.

 

Also added some screen stickers from Crispy Designs.

 

That is that now and if I can complete the wiring tomorrow, we've a weekend of green lanes waiting for us.

 

 

any chance of a link to the switch you have used? cheers

[Burnsey]

7 hours ago, bth2 said:

any chance of a link to the switch you have used? cheers

 

I bought the 'full 'kit' from here and even the switch eliminator just in case I may use it in the future and wire into the high beam - it was under a tenner, so it's here.

 

If you scroll down, each part has its own clickable link, including the switch.

 

So, I unplugged the single switch, plugged in the high/low/off one, then unplugged the single intensity, swapping for the dual.

 

Just finished and everything works and the lights go off with ignition. They then come on in the last setting, but it's not hard to turn them off.  Re-routed wiring for nav and grips, then tested everything. Battery has a few connections now (nav/lights/grips and optimate), but each and every part is operational.

 

The most difficult job was the switched live. My mate had cut into the blue/red striped wire under the seat (brake light I think) when he installed the nav. It is a short wire, in a fiddly spot and because I wanted to re-route cables, had to remove solder, then use the space (maybe 10mm) to reattach and add the light cable to the same wire. First time soldering and it was harder than expected. Heat shrink, masking tape and some zip ties finished it off.

 

In the morning I need to neaten the wiring under the seat, set the position of the lights and a final tighten.

 

Phew!

 

Pics once all sorted.

 

 

DENALI S4 KIT BUNDLE FOR ANYTHING WITH 12v POWER SUPPLY. – A Bike Thing

 

[Wintersdark]

17 hours ago, Burnsey said:

 

I really don't like how the bolts sit on the top.

 

They're begging to injure you.

Yeah; I wasn't really a fan, but these aren't the included bolts.  I seriously considered just having the guys at work weld the rack to the rails, but then decided it was more trouble than it was worth grinding everything down, welding, and repainting.  The kit actually came with tapered round headed hex socket bolts for that so they'd just be little smooth bumps, but they were M5 bolts, and the bolt heads where like 1mm larger than the bolt holes - just wasn't practical, and created too much slop in the whole assembly given how poorly everything lined up to start with.  Ended up with half the bolt head *in* the holes.  Washers would help, but they I was hoping to swap em out for larger, like-headed bolts, but shopping through the bolts at work we didn't have that style in stainless, so they got regular bolts.   Overall, I'd not recommend the kit unless one is just looking for a rack cheap, but it'll do the job.

[frivoloushobby]

Got my axp plate on. Ground away some material for a better fit with my headers and threw on some heat tape

[Kavika1991]

Decided to make a mount for the drone. It clamps on really simply and securely, folds almost flat when not in use. 

[Kavika1991]

Just now, Kavika1991 said:

Decided to make a mount for the drone. It clamps on really simply and securely, folds almost flat when not in use. 

I can also run the signal cable directly to the top phone if things are a bit… inhospitable. I would lose my navigation at that point so it’s not ideal. 

[Kavika1991]

Is he also OCD? Or just likes drones? 

the phone also uses a hood to block the sun in extreme sunlight. It goes in it’s little holder, in my right case.

[DonaNobisPacem]

After being stuck in delivery limbo for a little over 2 weeks, my Camel Adv order ­ -consisting of their tail tidy, fork guard protector, and fuel cap seal- finally arrived. Which means that I can finally install the rear turn signals as well. Now, I know from reading the relevant threads here that the 500mm Huzar exhaust and the Camel Adv tail tidy doesn't play nice without a bit of finagling. What I didn't expect was that some new laws passed recently and my country's motorcycle plates have grown to be gigantic in size.

 

 

I will most likely have a new plate bracket fabricated anyway to accommodate the bigger plate size, so I thought up some solutions based on that for the turn signal placement, and I thought I'd ask you guys for feedback on those and other ideas if you have some.

Option 1: A bracket that mounts lower, then place the turn signals in the space created. Simple, but it brings me a bit closer to the OEM tail tidy length.

 

Option 2: Mount the turn signals on the top corners of the plate bracket. Keeps the compactness of the tail tidy, but the turn signals end up being ultra wide.

 

Option 3: Pretend they're Denali T3's and mount them vertically. Also keeps the compactness of the tail tidy, but the mounting nut and bolt, as well as the wiring, being visible makes it look a bit goofy.

 

For now I've mounted the flush turn signals that was meant for the front of the bike. Luckily the wires were long enough, if only barely. I'm not happy about it though, it works as a temporary measure but I feel that the spacing between them as well as their proximity to the tail light makes them a bit hard to see.

Edited January 9, 2022 by DonaNobisPacem

[Burnsey]

Well 

 

Following the uninstall of all the gadgetry to enable a neat install of the Denali's, I got stuck under the seat today and happy with the result.

 

I have connections for:

 

• Denali S4 with dual intensity 
• Oxford heated grips
• Garmin Zumo
• Yamaha trickle charger

 

The Zumo and Denali have ignition feed, so safely turn off with the bike.

 

I've not used any of the OEM connections at the front of the bike either, so they may come in handy later.

 

I am not 'handy' so this was a first for me and with a little help from You Tube (yeah, yeah and you @DuncMan) I'm rather pleased with myself.

 

Edited January 9, 2022 by Burnsey

[Kavika1991]

2 hours ago, Burnsey said:

Well 

 

Following the uninstall of all the gadgetry to enable a neat install of the Denali's, I got stuck under the seat today and happy with the result.

 

I have connections for:

 

• Denali S4 with dual intensity 
• Oxford heated grips
• Garmin Zumo
• Yamaha trickle charger

 

The Zumo and Denali have ignition feed, so safely turn off with the bike.

 

I've not used any of the OEM connections at the front of the bike either, so they may come in handy later.

 

I am not 'handy' so this was a first for me and with a little help from You Tube (yeah, yeah and you @DuncMan) I'm rather pleased with myself.

 

That looks spotless in there. What do you use to clean it? 
 

Here’s mine, there is a battery tender, 4 off road lights, a voltage rectifier and USB lead, heated grips, 2 extra plugs to connect 12v accessories up on the dash and one on the rear and a heated outfit lead connected to the battery. Everything is on it’s separate harnesses and ignition on relay that is triggered from the factory harness via one wire. The battery tender plug is on its own harness, and also worked to power the tire pump. I went ahead and made the lines to the factory accessory plug HD while I was in there. 
 

you can also see the LED relay swap. 

Edited January 9, 2022 by Kavika1991

[Burnsey]

2 minutes ago, Kavika1991 said:

That looks spotless in there. What do you use to clean it? 
 

Here’s mine, there is a battery tender, 4 off road lights, a voltage rectifier and USB lead, heated grips, 2 extra plugs to connect 12v accessories up on the dash and one on the rear and a heated outfit lead connected to the battery. Everything is on it’s separate harnesses and ignition on relay that is triggered from the factory harness via one wire. The battery tender plug is on its own harness, and also worked to power the tire pump. I went ahead and made the lines to the factory accessory plug HD while I was in there. 
 

you can also see the LED relay swap. 

 

That's darn good!

 

Bike is new and only 1,500 on road miles at the minute, so it won't stay that clean...

[Kavika1991]

For a second there I thought you had the key to a clean bike 

[duibhceK]

Took it out for a little trip to the stairway to heaven

[gnortz]

I did that a long time ago. But it looks better with small indicators.

[Landshark]

7 hours ago, DonaNobisPacem said:

After being stuck in delivery limbo for a little over 2 weeks, my Camel Adv order ­ -consisting of their tail tidy, fork guard protector, and fuel cap seal- finally arrived. Which means that I can finally install the rear turn signals as well. Now, I know from reading the relevant threads here that the 500mm Huzar exhaust and the Camel Adv tail tidy doesn't play nice without a bit of finagling. What I didn't expect was that some new laws passed recently and my country's motorcycle plates have grown to be gigantic in size.

 

 

I will most likely have a new plate bracket fabricated anyway to accommodate the bigger plate size, so I thought up some solutions based on that for the turn signal placement, and I thought I'd ask you guys for feedback on those and other ideas if you have some.

Option 1: A bracket that mounts lower, then place the turn signals in the space created. Simple, but it brings me a bit closer to the OEM tail tidy length.

 

Option 2: Mount the turn signals on the top corners of the plate bracket. Keeps the compactness of the tail tidy, but the turn signals end up being ultra wide.

 

Option 3: Pretend they're Denali T3's and mount them vertically. Also keeps the compactness of the tail tidy, but the mounting nut and bolt, as well as the wiring, being visible makes it look a bit goofy.

 

For now I've mounted the flush turn signals that was meant for the front of the bike. Luckily the wires were long enough, if only barely. I'm not happy about it though, it works as a temporary measure but I feel that the spacing between them as well as their proximity to the tail light makes them a bit hard to see.

 

Those plates or tags are way to big.  A half a piece of plywood hanging off the ass end.  What knucklehead government butt face decided that this was a great idea.  I feel sorry for you all.  Remove the tail piece for looks and then install that number tag that you can see leaving for miles.  What's next?

[Kavika1991]

6 minutes ago, Landshark said:

 

Those plates or tags are way to big.  A half a piece of plywood hanging off the ass end.  What knucklehead government butt face decided that this was a great idea.  I feel sorry for you all.  Remove the tail piece for looks and then install that number tag that you can see leaving for miles.  What's next?

It makes it so the traffic and government cameras can readily identify you. It makes it possible for them to send you little pictures of you in the mail with a little pay this much love letter. 

[Kavika1991]

2 hours ago, gnortz said:

I did that a long time ago. But it looks better with small indicators.

What does the TUV say about the spacing of the lights. Surely that changed with the new Regulations.

[gnortz]

180mm between the rear turn signals. That fits me.

[Ray Ride4life]

After finishing episode 6 from the Balkan travel blog which i did with my Crosstourer i tried to fill the Mosko Moto fatty toolrol for the T7.
The next service i use the kit and look for what i may come across to check if it's how i want it.
The next trip i will have more offroad and i will take the T7 so it ha to be right. Hope to find some lightweight wrenches that wont have the need to win the lottery.

[Kavika1991]

3 hours ago, Stella said:

I just received this in the mail yesterday... Seems kinda fitting, given we're a week into this year's rally. 

I was About to point out that they spelled “meine” wrong. Then I realized it’s a state in the US.