Tubeless rim options for the Tenere?

[TimmyTheHog]

7 hours ago, Thomas Bak said:

Have you seen the tubeless wheels of the aprilia tuareg 660?!?!they look amazing I wonder which company makes them for aprilia

I know Alpina makes Tubeless spoke for Moto Guzzi, so possible Aprilia uses the same company as both MG & Aprilia are owned by Piaggio.

[CamT]

I'm seeing a lot if chat here about the OutEx sytem, but to me I think I might go with the Nuetech Tubliss System. More money but i'm reading a lot of reviews about added benefits with traction etc. 

 

Has anyone tried this system out? Curious to get a bit more input on it for heavier adventure bikes

 

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[AZJW]

1 hour ago, CamT said:

I'm seeing a lot if chat here about the OutEx sytem, but to me I think I might go with the Nuetech Tubliss System. More money but i'm reading a lot of reviews about added benefits with traction etc. 

 

Has anyone tried this system out? Curious to get a bit more input on it for heavier adventure bikes

 

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This thread might help with your question.

 

[Quercus Petraea]

Hey guys.

 

I like the Baretubless system, but I also like the simple system used by BMW or Aprilia.

I made a research and It seems Aprilia Tuareg has part numbers not for its whole wheels, but just its rims, and its about 250€ for the front and 400 for the rear.

Obviusly, a competent worker is needed to laze the spokes and hubs.

 

The question is (I'm an ingnorant here): have the Tenere and Tuareg wheels use the same number of spokes? Are the Tuareg spokes different or special? So, are the Tuareg rims compatible with the Tenere hubs and/or spokes???

Edited February 3, 2022 by Quercus Petraea

[SociallyStunted]

Can anyone with the BarTubeless rims comment on how much more the rims weigh with the sealed center wells?  Also, with the sealant taking up space in the center well of the rims, does that make mounting and dismounting by hand more difficult?  I do all my tire change with what I carry on the bike so I don't have any trailside surprises.  Plus it's good practice for me.  I'm imagining the BarTubeless sealed center well making it difficult to get a tire deep enough into the well during installation/removal.

 

I bent my front rim and am shopping options.  I have about 19k miles on my Outex kitted front and rear with zero issues.  Stock front is 1.85 wide and I had no trouble sealing it.  I was just very meticulous about cleaning and placing the sealing tape.  Looking at Woodys Wheels and they recommend a 2.15 for Outex in the front.  Is there any issue trying to seal Excel rims in 1.85 widths?  I'm wondering if at that width in an Excel if there isn't enough room in the center well to reliably seal around the spoke nipples.  Or maybe 1.85s aren't offered with the safety bead?

 

Thanks for any input.

[Redneckj]

I’m thinking of making my rear wheel tubeless using windshield urethane. Prep the surface with a scotch bright.   Alcohol surface.  Apply urethane primer.  Then apply the urethane similar to the way that bartwheels vulcanizes rubber to the drop center of the wheel.   
 

just a thought.  

[FredBasset]

On 12/10/2021 at 2:52 PM, Thomas Bak said:

Have you seen the tubeless wheels of the aprilia tuareg 660?!?!they look amazing I wonder which company makes them for aprilia

 

I believe they are an Akront rim, as used by Honda, Aprilia, Triumph and maybe BMW although they may use another manufacturer, as BMW have been using this type of rim for decades. It would be interesting to see if they could be laced to a T7 hub, but you would almost certainly need custom made spokes, plus the hub just might not be compatible with the angle of the spoke to rim. Which would then mean a custom made hub, all a bit expensive, but doable I’m sure if money was no object. 

 

Just a shame Yamaha don’t see the light and offer this type of wheel on the T7.

[DonaNobisPacem]

For the guys that went with the Outex Kit: Are the included valve stems plug and play, or do you have to drill a larger hole in your rims? I'm trying to piece together the 3M alternative, but I'm having trouble finding valve stems.

And if they are plug and play, would the guys who gave up on the kit and went back to using tubes be willing to sell the valve stems to me? Assuming you haven't thrown the entire thing into the trash, of course.

[sracer]

26 minutes ago, DonaNobisPacem said:

For the guys that went with the Outex Kit: Are the included valve stems plug and play, or do you have to drill a larger hole in your rims? I'm trying to piece together the 3M alternative, but I'm having trouble finding valve stems.

And if they are plug and play, would the guys who gave up on the kit and went back to using tubes be willing to sell the valve stems to me? Assuming you haven't thrown the entire thing into the trash, of course.

No drilling required. I used them (On for the rear) with 3M tape and sealant. They look a lot like standard metal valve stems used in aluminum auto wheels.

[Liquidape]

2 hours ago, DonaNobisPacem said:

For the guys that went with the Outex Kit: Are the included valve stems plug and play, or do you have to drill a larger hole in your rims? I'm trying to piece together the 3M alternative, but I'm having trouble finding valve stems.

And if they are plug and play, would the guys who gave up on the kit and went back to using tubes be willing to sell the valve stems to me? Assuming you haven't thrown the entire thing into the trash, of course.

You need to get an 8mm valve stem. 
 

here is the recipe I used to convert my rear wheel to tubeless with 3m tape and sealant.  

[DonaNobisPacem]

3 hours ago, Liquidape said:

You need to get an 8mm valve stem. 
 

here is the recipe I used to convert my rear wheel to tubeless with 3m tape and sealant.  

 

I ordered the same tape, but both the sealant and valve stem are out of stock. I instead opted for GOOP since I've seen others report that it does the job well, which just leaves me with the valve stem. I'm thinking of getting this valve stem instead, since it's available locally, but I'm a bit iffy on whether it would work alright with my TPMS sensors since I don't want those sticking out too much from the sides.

Edited December 5, 2022 by DonaNobisPacem

[Liquidape]

I wouldn’t use screw on TPMS sensors on an angled valve stem like that.  
You also need to make sure the valve stem is long enough where it goes through the rim since it will be thicker there with a few layers of tape. 
 

I would stick with a straight valve stem. I know you are in the Philippines but Rocky Mountain ATV has them in stock

K & L Short Straight Valve Stem | Tires and Wheels | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

---

Shop for Tire & Wheel Accessories, like K & L Short Straight Valve Stem at Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. We have the best prices on dirt bike, atv and motorcycle parts, apparel and accessories and offer excellent customer...

 

Goop might work, but the 3m stuff is bulletproof. Any marine / boating supply store should have it if you cant find it on line. 

[DonaNobisPacem]

That's what I figured. What do you think of this? Cheaper than the one you posted, and I think it looks nicer. I've seen it recommended in many tubeless conversions as well, and the only reservation I have about it is that it is technically 8.3mm and not 8mm.

Just a moment...

 

Actually, since you used the same 1.5in tape, I'd like to ask if it was wide enough for the front/rear or if did you have to overlap layers to get a good seal?

Edited December 6, 2022 by DonaNobisPacem

[Liquidape]

21 hours ago, DonaNobisPacem said:

Actually, since you used the same 1.5in tape, I'd like to ask if it was wide enough for the front/rear or if did you have to overlap layers to get a good seal?

I only did the rear wheel, and did 3 full turns around the rear wheel with the tape. One down the center, and then one on each side just barely over lapping in the center and not going past the bead retention bumps.  I did this since the 1.5” tape was not quite wide enough ton the rear to fully lay flat at its edges after going over the nipples.  Did not want to do the front wheel, but if had, one roll would not have been enough to do 3 passes on the rear and one on the front. 

You might get away with doing both with only 2 passes on the rear, but it might be tricky to get a good seal at the overlap between them. 
 

I used a metal wheel roller to push down the tape hard against the wheel and to work out as many bubbles as I could. I also washed down the inside of the wheel and then applied the 3m adhesion promoter just prior to applying the tape. 
Wheel after applying 3m FC 

Wheel after applying tape and with internal TPMS installed. ( which self destructed after a few thousand miles. )

[DonaNobisPacem]

2 hours ago, Liquidape said:

I only did the rear wheel, and did 3 full turns around the rear wheel with the tape. One down the center, and then one on each side just barely over lapping in the center and not going past the bead retention bumps.  I did this since the 1.5” tape was not quite wide enough ton the rear to fully lay flat at its edges after going over the nipples.  Did not want to do the front wheel, but if had, one roll would not have been enough to do 3 passes on the rear and one on the front. 

You might get away with doing both with only 2 passes on the rear, but it might be tricky to get a good seal at the overlap between them. 
 

I used a metal wheel roller to push down the tape hard against the wheel and to work out as many bubbles as I could. I also washed down the inside of the wheel and then applied the 3m adhesion promoter just prior to applying the tape. 
Wheel after applying 3m FC 

Wheel after applying tape and with internal TPMS installed. ( which self destructed after a few thousand miles. )

 

Looks like I made the right call to get two rolls since I had a feeling just a single 1.5in tape wouldn't quite cut it. Using an adhesion promoter sounds like a smart call as well, I'll definitely try it with that. How much of the stuff did you need for the rear? Do you think a 10ml bottle would be enough for both wheels?

[Liquidape]

10 ml should be plenty as long as you cap it tightly between uses. It flashes off quite quickly. 

[Jory]

@LiquidapeWhat tubeless tire are you using on the rear after you've done the conversion?

 

 

 

 

[Liquidape]

27 minutes ago, Jory said:

@LiquidapeWhat tubeless tire are you using on the rear after you've done the conversion?

 

 

 

 

Any and all. When I first did the conversion I put the original Scorpion back on. Then a Motoz Rallz, then a Bridgestone AX-41. Will most likely mount another AX-41 or Michelin Wild next depending on what the availability and pricing looks like. 
Most of the tires that fit this wheel are tubeless designs. 

[DonaNobisPacem]

I believe Kineo rims avoid that concern with their special spoke setup. They also market it as maintenance-free, ie. you don't ever need to adjust spoke tension. They are by far the most expensive option I've seen though.

[Ramrod123]

On 7/28/2020 at 11:38 AM, ScorpionT16 said:

 

 

its been done and works

Do you put the slime in the tube while the tire is inflated or after you have the flat?

[SamiNami]

I think this is the best way to do a DIY tubeless conversion:

 

The cheapest and most reliable way.

[Dirtbandit]

On 1/17/2023 at 1:02 AM, SamiNami said:

I think this is the best way to do a DIY tubeless conversion:

 

The cheapest and most reliable way.

Has anyone here actually tried this? Seems legit and sketchy at the same time.

[Liquidape]

3 hours ago, Dirtbandit said:

Has anyone here actually tried this? Seems legit and sketchy at the same time.

Seems like a pretty dumb way of doing it to me.  What happens when you get a flat?  How the hell do you get the cut down tube back between the tire bead and rim?

Same goes for changing tires. You would need to re do the whole procedure of cutting a new tube to fit it between the tire bead and rim every single tire change. 

[Dirtbandit]

12 hours ago, Liquidape said:

Seems like a pretty dumb way of doing it to me.  What happens when you get a flat?  How the hell do you get the cut down tube back between the tire bead and rim?

Same goes for changing tires. You would need to re do the whole procedure of cutting a new tube to fit it between the tire bead and rim every single tire change. 

Yeah the more I thought of it the more questions I had. Seems to me the tire could slip too, especially with the tube against the bead. 

[SamiNami]

On a more serious note.

I think I might buy a excell rim for the front and do bart tubless on both rims. Should come out at around 500-600euros.