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Tubeless rim options for the Tenere?


Tazmool

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1 hour ago, Mike S said:

Grand Total           $1513.28

 I chose the Excel 7000 series wheels in silver - Front $249 Rear $349

It would have been nice to have the gold or black wheels but I wanted to keep the cost reasonable

Stainless spokes and nipples came in at $275.04

I went for the Supersize and Superlace for $266  - this is one area that I wanted to beef up with multi-cross lacing and larger spokes

Add the Outex System came in at $300

I shipped them my hubs and it took about 3 weeks total as the front rim was not available at that time.

I think the shipping on the finished items came in around $75.

I realize that this isn't cheap but I tried to remove both tires just to see if I could patch them on the trail. I struggled with the front and finally succeeded in removing tire and tube. I then tried to do the same on the rear and could not remove the tire. I tried tire spoons, bead breakers C clamps and I could not break the bead. I took it to my local dealer and his machine was almost at the bottom of the whole stroke before the bead released. I decided that changing to something that I could repair in the field was a darn good idea!

Give Woody's a call - I am glad I did!

Mike

 

Thanks for the info! I've talked to Woody's about getting a couple of Blue rims, but none were available. I think that by the fall I will pull my wheels and send them down and do just what you did, hopefully with blue rims. Can really put out that cash right now after a pipe, reflash, and RR suspension this year.

I think I have Yamaha disease...

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On 3/14/2021 at 4:48 AM, Mike S said:

Grand Total           $1513.28

 I chose the Excel 7000 series wheels in silver - Front $249 Rear $349

It would have been nice to have the gold or black wheels but I wanted to keep the cost reasonable

Stainless spokes and nipples came in at $275.04

I went for the Supersize and Superlace for $266  - this is one area that I wanted to beef up with multi-cross lacing and larger spokes

Add the Outex System came in at $300

I shipped them my hubs and it took about 3 weeks total as the front rim was not available at that time.

I think the shipping on the finished items came in around $75.

I realize that this isn't cheap but I tried to remove both tires just to see if I could patch them on the trail. I struggled with the front and finally succeeded in removing tire and tube. I then tried to do the same on the rear and could not remove the tire. I tried tire spoons, bead breakers C clamps and I could not break the bead. I took it to my local dealer and his machine was almost at the bottom of the whole stroke before the bead released. I decided that changing to something that I could repair in the field was a darn good idea!

Give Woody's a call - I am glad I did!

Mike

 

Hey Mike

 

Did you stick to the standard RIM sizes? I have read some going down a couple of RIM sizes for off road applications.

 

Thanks Jeff 

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Jeff,

 

 The OEM front rim is 1.85 inches and I went to a 2.15 as the Outex system was not listed as available for the narrow rim. The rear OEM is 4.oo and Woody's offers a 4.25 so that's what I went with. They do offer narrower rear rims but my Tenere 700 will probably spend a fair amount of time on the road getting to the trails. Going down in width is probably a good idea if your riding will be primarily in the dirt!

 

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On 3/13/2021 at 9:17 AM, Canzvt said:

So this video shows the exact same method in which you would install the Outex system if supplied by Woody's Wheel Works except your tape is from Outex, not some other vendor. The key is PREPARATION and PATIENCE. The difference between the wheel shown and our T7's is that the spoke nipples are raised higher on the T7, requiring more prep and patience. I found heating the Outex tape with a heat gun helped a bunch. Use a blunt tire iron, or small roller to work the bubbles out. Each rim should take about at least an hour to fit the tape properly with little to no air pockets. My wheels were done last year in May using the standard Outex method with the little plastic dots on the nipples. If I were to do another set, I would use GOOP on the nipples. I had one spoke nipple leak on the rear as I didn't squeeze out all the air under the tape before buttoning it all up. That was repaired with GOOP sealant, and after 3 tire changes, it still holds fine. Dropped about 1psi per month over the winter. Sorry to hear that some have had problems with this system as it sure makes for quick puncture repairs out on the road. Highly recommend a TPMS though as you have NO RUN FLAT PROTECTION on the front rim.

There are some differences between what was shown and how I fit my Outex kit.

Firstly I did not seal my spokes with sealant before applying the tape. The seal is provided by the tape, which is also why I would never "pop" the air using a knife through the tape. I just moved any air bubbles towards the spoke and the high pressure inside the tire (and heat and time) did the rest. I would fully expect to adjust my spoke tension at some point, and the Outex kit allows for that.

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On 1/25/2021 at 7:25 PM, Vtamb81 said:

Just got my OUTEX kit and it’s the first time i’ve seen/heard of this kit coming with contact adhesive to use on the nipples before applying the small nipple tape seal. Anyone else?

615BF133-FE3B-4C1E-8803-C92CE815DF03.jpeg

I just received my Outex order today from Woody's, no Goop!  I had mentioned in the order comments I wanted spoke sealer also, but guess they aren't consistent on this. Project delayed again now while I source some 3M 5200 sealant.  Just letting others know they may or may not receive Goop from Woody's for sealing their spokes.

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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14 hours ago, darmahman said:

Here is mine I just got back from Woodys WW.  Tubeless super lace super size and stainless nips and spokes. The color of the rims is amazing in the sun

 

 

 

Stock sizes? 

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Yes as I wanted the wider front wheel so it could be made tubeless.

Rear is also stock. 

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Had a Continental TKC 70 mounted on the front wheel and a Continental TKC 70 Rocks on the rear from Woody’s Wheel Works with the Outex kit. Also had the local guys use bead seal just to play it safe. The weather in Ohio warmed up a couple of weeks ago so I filled the Tenere to 32 front and 36 rear and put about 150 highway miles on it and then put her away. Checked them out yesterday and only lost a single pound in each. Definitely better than I expected!

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I finally did it.

 

My rear tube failed on my the other day, so off the rim and tire came. I figured i bought the 3m sealing tape, time to use it. Gave the rim three wraps over my outex kit, put the tire back on and voila, it holds air, no leaks at the spokes and one happy T700 owner.

 

The outex kit was failing at the edges on a few spokes and the tape would not stick down, the 3m tape covers that edge and up the rim sde a bit. seems to be good stuff. I should have just gone this route originally it was way easier than that damn outex kit. 

 

Mike

 

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_151e.thumb.jpg.11b088fdc35fa4db6eae516d5004473c.jpg

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Regarding the Outex kit, I'm in the same camp as @Tazmool, the system did Not work for me.  I thought I'd done my homework in reviewing all the different methods and options for the install and had settled for just doing the rear rim, leaving the front running a tube.  After reading of many here having success without grinding down the spoke nipples, I just sanded and deburred any sharp edges. I then cleaned the wheel with soap and lots of water thoroughly dried it and wiped it down with rubbing alcohol.  Blew every crevice with compressed air and sealed every nipple with 3M sealant as shown in the Cycle pump tutorial on YT. Let dry overnight, then applied Outex tape as per instructions.   Knowing that some just use the 3M sealant without any tape, I figured that the Outex tape would double my chances of a successful conversion.   While laying the tape down it was painfully obvious that not grinding the nipples and covering them with sealant, raised their profile, which caused the tape to not adhere to the outside edges of the flat section in a number of locations. Finished up the installation as per instructions and reinstalled the oem rim strip to help keep some additional pressure to the tape as per the YT video.  Results? Multiple spoke leaks from the get go, not what I was hoping for.  Due to my schedule,  this needed to be rideable today, so I instructed the tire shop to install a tube and be done with it.  I really thought that this would be easier to get decent results, but I for one am not going to chase this self Induced problem by multiple tire dismounts & remounts.   Bummed I wasted my time and $ and that of a good friend who assisted this process who graciously ferried me and tires back and forth from the tire shop.  If Yamaha had just put sealed Tubeless rims from the beginning, this wouldn't be such a PIA to fix.  I'm done with it, sticking with tubes and will be adding OKO tire sealant and cross my fingers I don't get to use my nifty RallyRaid combo axle wrench trailside. Hope others have better luck than I, if they choose to go down this road. 

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"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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@AZJWI totally get where you are coming from I was there. I had the rear tire off a lot.  And I mean a lot.   Y tube failed so I figured I would try the 3m tape, it was much, much easier than the outex, I see why people use it.

 

next time you have it apart to swap rubber, ad three wraps of the 3m tape and give it a try.  
 

I will admit though, having a cycle works tire machine does make working on that stuff a lot easier.

 

Mike

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@MikeCMP Thanks for the encouragement.   If I get the gumption at some point, I might give the 3M tape a try. What width did you use?

 

"Men do not quit playing because they grow old, they grow old because they quit playing" Oliver Wendell Holmes - Mods - HDB handguards, Camel-ADV Gut guard, 1 finger clutch, The Fix pedal & Rally pipe, RR side/tail rack, RR 90nm spring & Headlight guard, Rally seat, OEM heated grips- stablemate Beta 520RS

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On 3/17/2021 at 10:51 PM, darmahman said:

Here is mine I just got back from Woodys WW.  Tubeless super lace super size and stainless nips and spokes. The color of the rims is amazing in the sun

 

 

 

Please keep us informed on how the tubeless holds up over the next few months.  I'm probably going to copy what you did depending on how the moving budget goes.  

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So....I've been keen to go tubless and been watching this thread with great interest, new tyres last weekend and went heavy duty tubes, purely at the time because I was too busy to sort out the the tubless job before hand, some info on all this though, the guy who did my suspension said tubless wasn't a good idea, he has a T7 and has been riding for decades also sells and fits tyres, also the guy who sold and fitted my tyres (different guy)is also involved in an Adventure bike tour business and said the majority of  tyre/flat "issues" on his tours come from tubless and especially tubless Retro fit, the fix, fit a tube, he strongly advised not to go down the tubless path on the T7 with OEM rims, this was his experience, and I guess my 2cents worth, I just bought a good patch kit and now keep my old OEM front tube as a spare on the bike at all times.

BTW, does anyone know where to purchase the old hot vulcanising kits?? They were awesome and 100% success!

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7 hours ago, rhicks said:

 

 

Please keep us informed on how the tubeless holds up over the next few months.  I'm probably going to copy what you did depending on how the moving budget goes.  

Will do. 

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On 3/23/2021 at 10:11 AM, MikeCMP said:

I finally did it.

 

My rear tube failed on my the other day, so off the rim and tire came. I figured i bought the 3m sealing tape, time to use it. Gave the rim three wraps over my outex kit, put the tire back on and voila, it holds air, no leaks at the spokes and one happy T700 owner.

 

The outex kit was failing at the edges on a few spokes and the tape would not stick down, the 3m tape covers that edge and up the rim sde a bit. seems to be good stuff. I should have just gone this route originally it was way easier than that damn outex kit. 

 

Mike

 

UNADJUSTEDNONRAW_thumb_151e.thumb.jpg.11b088fdc35fa4db6eae516d5004473c.jpg

I’m thinking of just doing the 3m tape with goo over the nipples and skipping the Outex. Anyone have a good source for a 90 degree valve stem that will work with the stock wheels?

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I’ve used kurvy girl valve stems and they work well.

kurveygirl.com

 

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There are options in this thread along with lots of good info.

 

adv_og_logo.png

I am putting this up here, this is a method originally posted in this supermotojunkie.com thread:...

 

 

 

the valve stems are smaller than standard, I think Napa has them, link is in that thread in the first couple pages.

 

Mike

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To directly answer the question the outex kit came with a valve stem and I used that.

 

Mike

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11 minutes ago, MikeCMP said:

To directly answer the question the outex kit came with a valve stem and I used that.

 

Mike

I think I’m going to go full Monty and add internal TPMS while I’m in there. Ordered this that says the valve stems are 8.6mm. So I think it should work. Also ordered the 4411n 1.5” wide tape, the 5200 FC marine sealant and the 211 adheasion promoter. All added up it’s not much more than an Outrex kit. 

 

C7872960-4F8C-44FB-8CFB-8ABEFA67B952.thumb.png.16aae0ef11064500d44467b198b5bdad.png

 

Edited by Liquidape
Misspell
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Much like others I bought the Outex and installed (rear) per instructions. Multiple leaks. Put tube back in, ordered the 3M 4411 1.5".  Two wraps of the tape and still had some slight leaks. 8 oz. of Stan's tubeless sealant, and has lost zero pressure for at least a month. I'm eventually doing the front same way.

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2 hours ago, Liquidape said:

I think I’m going to go full Monty and add internal TPMS while I’m in there. Ordered this that says the valve stems are 8.6mm. So I think it should work. Also ordered the 4411n 1.5” wide tape, the 5200 FC marine sealant and the 211 adheasion promoter. All added up it’s not much more than an Outrex kit. 

 

C7872960-4F8C-44FB-8CFB-8ABEFA67B952.thumb.png.16aae0ef11064500d44467b198b5bdad.png

 


cool. I wish I had seen this I bought an external TPMS kit. 
 

man I HATE the monitor on mine though, looks similar to yours. The battery just does not last. If I leave it overnight and it’s cold, dead the next day. If I manually turn it off after I am done for the day it seems ok.

 

wish I had gotten one that hard wired to bike power. 
 

also kinda hilariously my tube broke and it didn’t even tell me until I had gotten down the driveway on it. It eventually figured it out.....

 

glad to have it though, keeping and eye of pressure is a good thing to be able to do.

 

do you know, are those internal ones compatible with tire sealant?

 

Mike

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