High Exhaust, is it ok? anyone try one yet? Ever hear of Huzar exhausts?

[Wintersdark]

2 hours ago, DonaNobisPacem said:

Regarding mounting the exhaust on the Heed rear crash bars, do you think the 500mm can would work as well or will it snag the turn signals on the stock tail setup? I was considering the Heed rear crash bars in lieu of grab handles for moving the bike around, and if it works with the Huzar setup while letting me not cut into the plastics, then all the better.

So, keep in mine to mount mine to the Heed bars, I had to have a split collar welded to a strip of metal, which I bent.  There's lots of ways to do this without welding (P clamps, for example, which someone else here did) but I didn't have the right size.  I got the two piece collar on Amazon though, was pretty trivial to get.

 

Just that you'll need some kind of custom solution to make it work, parts to mount the exhaust to the Heed bars are not included.  

 

As to signals.  The 500mm can would probably work *better* as the exhaust from the 400 exited directly into the indicator (stock tail).  The 500mm can would exit higher up, roughly 5cm higher, so it *may* be ok with the stock indicators.  No guarantees though.

 

In my case, I just replaced my indicators with cheap flushmount LED indicators, which both looked way better in the front, and stayed in close enough to avoid the exhaust. 

[DonaNobisPacem]

1 hour ago, Wintersdark said:

So, keep in mine to mount mine to the Heed bars, I had to have a split collar welded to a strip of metal, which I bent.  There's lots of ways to do this without welding (P clamps, for example, which someone else here did) but I didn't have the right size.  I got the two piece collar on Amazon though, was pretty trivial to get.

 

Just that you'll need some kind of custom solution to make it work, parts to mount the exhaust to the Heed bars are not included.  

 

As to signals.  The 500mm can would probably work *better* as the exhaust from the 400 exited directly into the indicator (stock tail).  The 500mm can would exit higher up, roughly 5cm higher, so it *may* be ok with the stock indicators.  No guarantees though.

 

In my case, I just replaced my indicators with cheap flushmount LED indicators, which both looked way better in the front, and stayed in close enough to avoid the exhaust. 

Thanks. I am aware of the need for additional parts for making the setup work. Another alternative to cutting plastics I've seen somewhere is mounting the exhaust using the tab on the B&B tail rack; it's a simpler solution, but also more expensive and doesn't solve the want for rear grab handles without further adding to the cost. Or maybe I should see if I can copy the mounting bracket from the HP Corse exhaust posted here, that looks like a clean solution as well.

[Gary Dirt]

Hello, I was ready to pull the trigger then I realized I might have a clearance problem with my Givi side rack holding brackets. I believe I have to rule out the short mid pipe and short muffler as it probably run into the cross support bar from left side to right side bag holders. I’m ok with the long setup.

but concerned it will hit the support bracket where my finger is pointed..

has anybody installed the Huzar with Givi side bag holders ??? I know that Givi makes Yamahas but they are different in this area ..
 

[Wintersdark]

@Gary Dirt No worries.  Here's mine actually mounted to my Heed rear crash bars:

 

It sits right under the tail, the link pipe runs (and mounts to) the inside of the stock exhaust hanger.  You may want to take a similar approach and mount the can to your Givi racks, vs. the normal method of cutting the plastics under the tail.  This is just a split ring collar I had a guy weld to a strip of steel.  Drilled a hole in the end of the strip and bent it to line up with the muffler via smashing with a hammer, sprayed black, and voila!  Cut free muffler hanger.  

[Gary Dirt]

I don’t think the Heed bracket is similar to my Givi, maybe my camera shot it’s the best but put a straight object and my bracket is very close , forget the larger diameter muffler..

what is the diameter of the mid pipe and muffler??? 
maybe I can simulate the mid pipe angle and measure for a larger diameter muffler and see if it will hit 

[Wintersdark]

The Heed crash bar isn't similar to your Givi bracket; that's kind of the point.  It's a close-in crash bar that barely extends past the plastics.  

 

The link pipe is 50mm OD, and is held at it's outermost approximated 4mm inboard of the frame exhaust hanger bracket.  The muffler itself is closer inboard than the plastics (without your Givi brackets or the Heed crash bars, if you where to just dump the bike over on it's right side, the muffler wouldn't contact the ground - the plastics would.  Here's a photo looking down from above the muffler:

 

 

There's a fair amount of flexibility in where exactly the muffler sits up and down due to the length of the link pipe.  Not really much side to side because of how it mounts to the inside of the stock muffler hanger, but it's VERY inboard by design.  

[Veider]

New black ceramic high mount from hpcorse. It seems available from January 2022....

 

Edited November 29, 2021 by Veider

[Gary Dirt]

This is a aluminum cheater bar about 1-7/8” similar to the mid pipe but the main point is I set this pipe on the inside of the oem exhaust bracket and run it at best I could to the same angle. And it gets very close to my Givi bracket , so I need to know how much bigger the muffler can is than the mid pipe …

example - if the muffler can is 2” larger , I’d have to figure that it would be 1” closer to my Givi bracket .. in this example would hit my bracket as I don’t think I have an inch ???

[Wintersdark]

Muffler is 95mm by 106mm. Note that you can adjust the height by about and inch, and going up also moves it in due to how it's attached to the hanger:

 

 

You do this by rotating the link pipe inwards - that mount can move about half way up the hanger.

[Gary Dirt]

Thank you for your assistance, I just pulled the trigger and will post pictures once I receive and install the system…

did you do any remapping to the ECU ??

I also believe the general consensus is running the rear insert / baffle and leaving out the flat disc with four holes in it that goes inlet side of the muffler ???

[Wintersdark]

55 minutes ago, Gary Dirt said:

Thank you for your assistance, I just pulled the trigger and will post pictures once I receive and install the system…

did you do any remapping to the ECU ??

I also believe the general consensus is running the rear insert / baffle and leaving out the flat disc with four holes in it that goes inlet side of the muffler ???

So, if you leave the flat disk out it'll have a kind of harsh rasping noise when you let off the throttle.  If that's a problem for you or not will really be up to you.

 

It sounds awesome with neither in, but it's VERY loud.  I'm waiting on a couple aftermarket baffles to do some experimenting, but in the mean time I put the disk back in with the baffle and it sounds great, completely removing the rasp off the throttle.  It's super easy to switch if you've not sealed the muffler to the link pipe (two springs and a bolt for the muffler mount) so experimenting to find what works for you is easy.

 

I tried to record it to illustrate the sound difference, but it's really tough to record an accurate representation of an exhaust note without a good mic.  

 

Ultimately, the bike runs the same with the disk in or out, it just really changes the sound.  

 

You're leaving the cat in, so no remapping is required.  If you want to remove the cat then you'd need to. 

 

 

Edited December 1, 2021 by Wintersdark

[Wintersdark]

Sound measurements with the 400mm Huzar exhaust, FYI for people considering this:

 

I've found that the bike sounds best either with neither baffle in, or both baffles in.  If you just use the baffle at the end, and not the disk, it gets a rasp off throttle that I (personally, anyways) find annoying - we discuss this up a few posts here.  The disk fixes that.  I got lazy, though, and pulled both out.

 

I measured how loud it is with my 400mm muffler, measuring from the rear set of the bike immediately beside the exhaust exit.  On low to moderate throttle (as you would when cruising at ~50-60kph) it's 80db with neither baffle in, or 73 with both in.  Peak of 84db revving hard with neither, 83db revving hard with both.  So it idles MUCH quieter with the baffles in, but is pretty comparable as you get on the throttle.  Obviously, it's a much deeper tone without the baffles.  But 80db is really not super loud - it's WAY quieter than my old MT07 with it's Black Widow 230mm GP style full system (no cat) exhaust was - that was, with baffles, 83db at idle and 100db revving hard.

[Wintersdark]

Also: I got a couple extra baffles from Amazon to try out - two different lengths, 130mm and 160mm, with holes and an optional endstop.   Both where a fair bit longer than the Huzar baffle.

 

Both made the bike quieter, but have a much smaller ID than the Huzar baffle and tended to make it sound much sharper, more of a bark and less of a thump.  Kind of unpleasant, and while quieter it seemed louder due to the nature of the sound.  At least to me.  Definitely sounded a lot worse.  I feel the larger ID of the Huzar baffle and it's more bell-like shape contribute a lot to the better sound there.  I've been meaning to try drilling holes in it, but I lack a drill press and good drill bits; just seems like a PITA to manage, so I'm just going to be leaving the baffles out for now.  80db is acceptable, and quieter than a lot of the stock Harley's around here.

 

Also, it sounds awesome with the baffles out - love that deep thump.  CP2's sound so damn good.

[DonaNobisPacem]

Managed to test fit my 500mm Huzar today. Now I understand why the HP Corse setup has a tab welded into the pipe itself, their bracket wouldn't work otherwise since the can mounts so high. I'll still take it to the local machine shop in the near future (I have a Camel Adv tail tidy on the way and based on @Bmp4510's build, I'll have them fabricate new mounts for the turn signals, and maybe a new plate since our plate sizes here are different) and try to see if we can work out a similar system for the Huzar. If not, well I can always fall back to following the instructions and cutting the plastics.

 

[Bmp4510]

I believe I just used 1.5” angle aluminum stock. I made a couple of different sets with different spacing on the holes until I could install the signals, OEM reflectors (we have annual safety checks here) and helmet lock. If you’d like I can measure the holes to see where they ended up on mine. I used a dremel just to add some kind of shape to the brackets. The paint isn’t holding up good on them, and I wanted to use etching primer but I couldn’t find any locally.

[DonaNobisPacem]

21 hours ago, Bmp4510 said:

I believe I just used 1.5” angle aluminum stock. I made a couple of different sets with different spacing on the holes until I could install the signals, OEM reflectors (we have annual safety checks here) and helmet lock. If you’d like I can measure the holes to see where they ended up on mine. I used a dremel just to add some kind of shape to the brackets. The paint isn’t holding up good on them, and I wanted to use etching primer but I couldn’t find any locally.

 

Thanks, though I do have some ideas of my own on where I'd position the turn signals. I'm actually more interested in seeing how your wiring for the turn signals looks like.

[Bmp4510]

I believe I just used 1.5” angle aluminum stock. I made a couple of different sets with different spacing on the holes until I could install the signals, OEM reflectors (we have annual safety checks here) and helmet lock. If you’d like I can measure the holes to see where they ended up on mine. I used a dremel just to add some kind of shape to the brackets. The paint isn’t holding up good on them, and I wanted to use etching primer but I couldn’t find any locally.

 

I did the Cyclops Adventure kit. It was expensive, but it was plug and play without alterations to the wiring system. I read about the different systems in the forum and to stay compliant with the annual safety check here it seemed to be the best option. I’ve been happy with the kit and shaved 2lbs off my wallet.

CIL-MF2-T7 Multi Function 2.0 Turn Signal Kits I have a Yamaha T7 and need the complete kit, dash light will flash: all inclusive kit for the T7 Yamaha, flasher and block off plates included - $40.00

$159.95 x 1

[DonaNobisPacem]

So I just checked my installation work for my exhaust, and I have a small leak on the connection even when I put on some high temp RTV in there. Is this anything I should be concerned about? Or should I take it off and reapply the sealant?

[Bmp4510]

I’d disassemble the connector, clean it off good, and reapply the sealant. I’d let it set for 24 hours and try it again. With a small leak it probably won’t hurt anything, but on some exhaust systems you’ll get a backfire upon deceleration from the cold air being introduced from a small leak into the exhaust system. Perhaps with the CAT in the headpipe this wouldn’t happen, I don’t know far sure. But if I spend the money and the time on doing an exhaust, I’d want it the best sealed it could be. 

[DonaNobisPacem]

Ripping off Taking inspiration from what @ividicdid for his exhaust, and one short jaunt to the local fabricator later, behold:

 

 

No weird bending of brackets, no need for longer bolts, and most importantly, no cutting of plastics. Everything completely stock and reversible, just as I wanted.

[Wintersdark]

12 hours ago, DonaNobisPacem said:

Ripping off Taking inspiration from what @ividicdid for his exhaust, and one short jaunt to the local fabricator later, behold:

 

 

No weird bending of brackets, no need for longer bolts, and most importantly, no cutting of plastics. Everything completely stock and reversible, just as I wanted.

Very nice.  This is what should be included with the kit IMHO.  

[jdub53]

I did my Huzar installation this morning, and am very pleased with the end result.

 

 

My only reason for this project was to avoid the issue of the OEM muffler bending into the swingarm following off-road drops. After researching and evaluating all of the aftermarket offerings out there, I decided that if I were designing/making my own system for my T7 it would be exactly like the Huzar with a 40 cm black muffler and with both dB killers installed. The cost of $215 USD delivered to me from Poland just over 3 weeks after ordering was simply icing on the cake. 

 

Reading all of the info on this thread was a great help for what to expect. My bike has a Tusk tail tidy and 12 O'clock Labs rear LED signals so I wasn't sure if there would be any conflicts there. What I found when loosely fitting everything together (and using the supplied Huzar 40 mm stand-off bracket discussed below in more detail) was that the rear signal sat right on top of/contacted the muffler's end pipe. Obviously that wasn't going to work, so using a long adjustable wrench I carefully bent each signal's tail tidy attach point slightly outward/upward. This angled the right signal upward enough to clear the pipe, and the tilted signals now have a bit better visibility from the rear. Combined with the longer muffler support bracket I used, the right signal now has almost 1" of clearance from the pipe which I'm sure will ensure no heat issues.     

 

I already knew I wanted the muffler lower than where the Huzar stand-off support bracket would put it, mostly because from the pictures I'd seen it appeared the muffler would obscure the stock frame "handle" under the rear fender and I wanted access to that if needed when picking up the bike from the right side. I measured the hole centers on the Huzar bracket as 40 mm, and while trial fitting the muffler determined that a bracket with hole centers 60 mm apart would put the muffler as low as possible while utilizing everything else provided. As luck would have it, I found a perfectly sized bracket in my toolbox with 60 mm center holes.

 

With the rear upper body panel off the bike, I held the bracket in place where it would attach to the frame and used a Sharpie to mark the inside of the lower panel where I'd need to cut the hole for the bracket to pass through. Using a razor knife and following my mark, I cut into the lower panel and then used a Dremel to clean the edges just enough for the bracket to pass through - resulting in a small, exact 10 mm x 25 mm hole.  Once everything was installed and tightened, I sealed the inner edges of this hole with a bead of clear RTV. 

 

 

Keeping the exhaust quiet was important to me, and after reading several previous comments about the inner dB killer rattling around I decided to secure it into place with hi-temp RTV. After gently placing the muffler inlet-side up in a wood vise, I ran a bead of RTV around the inside of the inlet where the dB killer would sit. I then placed the dB killer into the inlet, set it into the RTV bead and ran another bead of RTV around the edge of the dB killer to help keep it in place once the connector pipe was installed inside the muffler.   

 

To avoid an exhaust leak at the front of the connector pipe, I ran a bead of RTV inside of it where the outlet pipe from the cat would sit and then slipped the connector pipe on. With the connector pipe's upper clamp in place but not tightened, I slid on the muffler and then attached the muffler clamp to the longer stand-off support bracket. It took several tries to get the muffler rotated exactly where I wanted it once the clamp was tightened, and once that was done I tightened all of the clamps and brackets and attached the muffler-to-connector pipe springs.

 

After letting the RTV set for an hour or so, I fired up the bike. Going by just my ears (no sound meter involved), idle was a bit quieter than stock. Although I'd never done so with the stock exhaust unless I was riding the bike, I brought the RPM up to 4k to 5k RPM and am fairly sure the exhaust note was no louder than stock which is exactly what I was after. Back at idle and when standing on the left side of the bike it seemed engine noise was perhaps even a bit louder than the exhaust (I never noted how they compared with the stock exhaust).      

 

Taking my time, start to finish was about three hours and I found this to be an easy and fun project. I love the look of the Huzar installation, and will like it even better once the connector pipe gets a bit of color vs the chrome-like shine it has now. I still need to add a heel heat shield to the connector pipe, and will fit the OEM muffler shield like others have done. Once the RTV is fully cured in a day or so I look forward to trying it on a ride. 

 

 

[nolman]

6 hours ago, jdub53 said:

I did my Huzar installation this morning, and am very pleased with the end result.

 

 

My only reason for this project was to avoid the issue of the OEM muffler bending into the swingarm following off-road drops. After researching and evaluating all of the aftermarket offerings out there, I decided that if I were designing/making my own system for my T7 it would be exactly like the Huzar with a 40 cm black muffler and with both dB killers installed. The cost of $215 USD delivered to me from Poland just over 3 weeks after ordering was simply icing on the cake. 

 

Reading all of the info on this thread was a great help for what to expect. My bike has a Tusk tail tidy and 12 O'clock Labs rear LED signals so I wasn't sure if there would be any conflicts there. What I found when loosely fitting everything together (and using the supplied Huzar 40 mm stand-off bracket discussed below in more detail) was that the rear signal sat right on top of/contacted the muffler's end pipe. Obviously that wasn't going to work, so using a long adjustable wrench I carefully bent each signal's tail tidy attach point slightly outward/upward. This angled the right signal upward enough to clear the pipe, and the tilted signals now have a bit better visibility from the rear. Combined with the longer muffler support bracket I used, the right signal now has almost 1" of clearance from the pipe which I'm sure will ensure no heat issues.     

 

I already knew I wanted the muffler lower than where the Huzar stand-off support bracket would put it, mostly because from the pictures I'd seen it appeared the muffler would obscure the stock frame "handle" under the rear fender and I wanted access to that if needed when picking up the bike from the right side. I measured the hole centers on the Huzar bracket as 40 mm, and while trial fitting the muffler determined that a bracket with hole centers 60 mm apart would put the muffler as low as possible while utilizing everything else provided. As luck would have it, I found a perfectly sized bracket in my toolbox with 60 mm center holes.

 

With the rear upper body panel off the bike, I held the bracket in place where it would attach to the frame and used a Sharpie to mark the inside of the lower panel where I'd need to cut the hole for the bracket to pass through. Using a razor knife and following my mark, I cut into the lower panel and then used a Dremel to clean the edges just enough for the bracket to pass through - resulting in a small, exact 10 mm x 25 mm hole.  Once everything was installed and tightened, I sealed the inner edges of this hole with a bead of clear RTV. 

 

 

Keeping the exhaust quiet was important to me, and after reading several previous comments about the inner dB killer rattling around I decided to secure it into place with hi-temp RTV. After gently placing the muffler inlet-side up in a wood vise, I ran a bead of RTV around the inside of the inlet where the dB killer would sit. I then placed the dB killer into the inlet, set it into the RTV bead and ran another bead of RTV around the edge of the dB killer to help keep it in place once the connector pipe was installed inside the muffler.   

 

To avoid an exhaust leak at the front of the connector pipe, I ran a bead of RTV inside of it where the outlet pipe from the cat would sit and then slipped the connector pipe on. With the connector pipe's upper clamp in place but not tightened, I slid on the muffler and then attached the muffler clamp to the longer stand-off support bracket. It took several tries to get the muffler rotated exactly where I wanted it once the clamp was tightened, and once that was done I tightened all of the clamps and brackets and attached the muffler-to-connector pipe springs.

 

After letting the RTV set for an hour or so, I fired up the bike. Going by just my ears (no sound meter involved), idle was a bit quieter than stock. Although I'd never done so with the stock exhaust unless I was riding the bike, I brought the RPM up to 4k to 5k RPM and am fairly sure the exhaust note was no louder than stock which is exactly what I was after. Back at idle and when standing on the left side of the bike it seemed engine noise was perhaps even a bit louder than the exhaust (I never noted how they compared with the stock exhaust).      

 

Taking my time, start to finish was about three hours and I found this to be an easy and fun project. I love the look of the Huzar installation, and will like it even better once the connector pipe gets a bit of color vs the chrome-like shine it has now. I still need to add a heel heat shield to the connector pipe, and will fit the OEM muffler shield like others have done. Once the RTV is fully cured in a day or so I look forward to trying it on a ride. 

 

 

Wow that's looking great !
Love the line !

Thanks for documenting.
Now i might have to order one myself

[Wintersdark]

Yeah, its a good looking system.  Love how it follows the lines of the tail, think it's a huge improvement over stock and more importantly it'll stay that way not getting smashed every time the bike takes a nap.  

 

Even the 400mm is surprisingly quiet with both baffles in.   Very close to stock if not quieter, the 500mm would definitely be quieter.   On the flip side, with the baffles out, it's not oppressively loud either - having the cat and the long can really helps manage things.  

 

[DonaNobisPacem]

I can attest to that. I have the 500mm can and both baffles out, and it's only slightly louder than stock.