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What have you done for your T7 today?


Noel McCutcheon

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Went for a ride with the dB killer removed from my Wings exhaust. It’s raspy when you first start the bike but quiets down once the engine is up to temp, and then only really loud when you’re on it hard. Boy does it sound good! Now that I know you can still be fairly stealthy with a light throttle hand I may keep it out.

Edited by Camstyn
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at weekend i gave her a 12,000 mile oil and filter change......treated her to yamalube and genuine  filter.  strange thing is ,it seems to change gear smoother now. i normaly change oil at 3000 miles with motul.

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Upgraded the stock suspension today and replaced the front 15T sprocket with a 16T sprocket as I wanted to lower the highway cruising RPMs.

 

Swapped in 6.6N K-Tech fork springs and a 90N K-Tech rear spring. It was fairly easy, but admittedly very sketchy to remove the rear spring and install the new one without a spring compressor. I used the hydraulic floor jack method as depicted in this video:

 

 

My jack did not have the raised lips on all four sides on the surface of the jack, just two. Do not recommend. This was me getting away with something I would definitely consider questionable at best.

 

Swapping the fork springs was pretty easy. I did it with the forks still mounted on the bike, and raised and lowered my bike jack as necessary.

 

I also straightened my barkbusters and the front wheel today (twisted it in a drop last week) as well as installed a cheap clip-on windscreen extender today to see if it takes off some of the wind buffeting on my head.

 

Beer o'clock now. Going to test ride the bike tomorrow and make sure I didn't mess anything up today.

 

 

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First swapped out the bars, Pro-Taper ADV low,  tapped the ends to keep factory bar end weights, then switched from Cycra CRM to Barkbusters and used their kit for the tapped ends. Grips were changed to ProGrip Rally 737 the extra width is closer to stock.  Installed the complete set of Touratech crash and bash protection, very easy install and extremely happy with the fit and finish. 

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On 8/23/2021 at 8:42 PM, TeabagInsurance said:

Upgraded the stock suspension today and replaced the front 15T sprocket with a 16T sprocket as I wanted to lower the highway cruising RPMs.

 

Swapped in 6.6N K-Tech fork springs and a 90N K-Tech rear spring. It was fairly easy, but admittedly very sketchy to remove the rear spring and install the new one without a spring compressor. I used the hydraulic floor jack method as depicted in this video:

 

 

My jack did not have the raised lips on all four sides on the surface of the jack, just two. Do not recommend. This was me getting away with something I would definitely consider questionable at best.

 

Swapping the fork springs was pretty easy. I did it with the forks still mounted on the bike, and raised and lowered my bike jack as necessary.

 

I also straightened my barkbusters and the front wheel today (twisted it in a drop last week) as well as installed a cheap clip-on windscreen extender today to see if it takes off some of the wind buffeting on my head.

 

Beer o'clock now. Going to test ride the bike tomorrow and make sure I didn't mess anything up today.

 

 

I've been considering the gearing change myself.  Can I ask how you like it and how much change it actually produced at say 70mph?

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44 minutes ago, zaskar said:

I've been considering the gearing change myself.  Can I ask how you like it and how much change it actually produced at say 70mph?

I’m glad I changed it. At around 70mph, it will run at just under 5000RPM, as opposed to being closer to 5400-5500RPM I don’t notice any significant difference in power through the lower gears or when riding dirt. The only loss of pull I notice is a small amount when passing at highway/freeway speeds while in 6th gear. If I’m passing using the oncoming traffic lane I prefer to drop down to 5th for the extra power. It’s also kind of nice when riding around town as it slightly reduces the frequency for shifting since it’s taller all around.

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I added a small light bar. Wired it so it comes on with the high beam switch. I'm not crazy about the looks of it, but with the high mount fender I was limited in the placement. I can always put the low mount back on and hang it underneath. Have to see what the winter brings.PXL_20210826_184458656.thumb.jpg.be7fcd36d7a779b5a46d5fb29a77a931.jpgPXL_20210826_184514166.thumb.jpg.e0311ffd9def3746c6d53f760fce9876.jpg

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Took the cheap Amazon indicators off and put the pumpkins back on. The experiment is complete and was a failure. Not only did everyone behind me say they couldn't see them (I was a lead guide for Touratech Dirt Daze). One of the rear lights shorted causing all kinds of issues including my brake light to stay on all them time.  

 

Into the bin they go with pleasure 🙂😂

 

 

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Edited by Offcamber
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3 hours ago, Offcamber said:

Took the cheap Amazon indicators off and put the pumpkins back on. The experiment is complete and was a failure. Not only did everyone behind me say they couldn't see them (I was a lead guide for Your tech Dirt Daze). One of the rear lights shorted causing all kinds of issues including my brake light to stay on all them time.  

 

Into the bin they go with pleasure 🙂😂

 

 

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You should try the penny lights like I put on. I too had junk Amazon specials. The penny marker lights are awesome. At a dollar fifty each,I bought a dozen of them and will change them when needed. Super bright and out of the way. It was an excellent upgrade.

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3 hours ago, Offcamber said:

Took the cheap Amazon indicators off and put the pumpkins back on. The experiment is complete and was a failure. Not only did everyone behind me say they couldn't see them (I was a lead guide for Your tech Dirt Daze). One of the rear lights shorted causing all kinds of issues including my brake light to stay on all them time.  

 

Into the bin they go with pleasure 🙂😂

 

 

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The pumpkins are hideous. I have the same tail tidy as you and I just had to make 2 small brackets for the back lights. 16582782_PXL_20210827_1750339262.thumb.jpg.e2ab3c5259852ebbd4f37771a7b9cefe.jpg1044625169_PXL_20210827_1750429692.thumb.jpg.8a4ec10b90ddb0d0c7f69917f32c2f1c.jpg

 

The bottom light is a marker light and the top is a signal. Just have to split the harness and run some wire. Easy peasy.PXL_20210827_175106170.thumb.jpg.a28fe4f4863a6fdc773efb2735bd3e88.jpg

 

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23 hours ago, McMadMac said:

I added a small light bar. Wired it so it comes on with the high beam switch. I'm not crazy about the looks of it, but with the high mount fender I was limited in the placement. I can always put the low mount back on and hang it underneath. Have to see what the winter brings.PXL_20210826_184458656.thumb.jpg.be7fcd36d7a779b5a46d5fb29a77a931.jpgPXL_20210826_184514166.thumb.jpg.e0311ffd9def3746c6d53f760fce9876.jpg

How did you wire it? 

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Just now, Nighthawk said:

How did you wire it? 

 

You need to get a 12 volt relay. The high beam wiring harness is under the right hand front cover. The trigger wire is the solid yellow wire going to the plug. You have to be aware that it runs in reverse of normal though. Meaning that the high beam wire is 12 volts when off and 0 volts when on. So a guy has to wire the relay backwards. I mounted the relay under the pillion seat and ran the wiring back there. Pretty simple and more convenient than adding a second switch in my opinion.

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2 minutes ago, McMadMac said:

 

You need to get a 12 volt relay. The high beam wiring harness is under the right hand front cover. The trigger wire is the solid yellow wire going to the plug. You have to be aware that it runs in reverse of normal though. Meaning that the high beam wire is 12 volts when off and 0 volts when on. So a guy has to wire the relay backwards. I mounted the relay under the pillion seat and ran the wiring back there. Pretty simple and more convenient than adding a second switch in my opinion.

Thank you. I've been thinking about getting some extra lights that stay on 50% all the time and 100 on high beam. But I'm realising that that's to complicated for me so I think I'll just go for your solution

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Changed the front fork springs with K-Tech without removing the forks from the front wheel using this link on YouTube.

 

Two tips (my bike has the OEM centre stand) I weighed down the back of the bike to take the front wheel off the floor, then put a small bike lift under the front wheel.  This supported the front of the bike and stopped it collapsing.

 

A very quick and simple job that has transformed the bike's handling and fork dive 😀👍

 

 

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46 minutes ago, McMadMac said:

The pumpkins are hideous. I have the same tail tidy as you and I just had to make 2 small brackets for the back lights. 16582782_PXL_20210827_1750339262.thumb.jpg.e2ab3c5259852ebbd4f37771a7b9cefe.jpg1044625169_PXL_20210827_1750429692.thumb.jpg.8a4ec10b90ddb0d0c7f69917f32c2f1c.jpg

 

The bottom light is a marker light and the top is a signal. Just have to split the harness and run some wire. Easy peasy.PXL_20210827_175106170.thumb.jpg.a28fe4f4863a6fdc773efb2735bd3e88.jpg

 

How bright are they? At this point I am more interested in being seen than aesthetics. 

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1 minute ago, Offcamber said:

How bright are they? At this point I am more interested in being seen than aesthetics. 

Don't know how to upload a video or I'd show you. But here's a picture. PXL_20210827_184902294.thumb.jpg.9a40e3b2ed3ad692d6a9e42bcfe45a80.jpgPXL_20210827_184917353.thumb.jpg.fedf5b9cc35fa195f32072a450aa9d65.jpg1851278822_PXL_20210827_1849308582.thumb.jpg.281971dd41547af53d06b13abdb54890.jpg

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I found these little gems on revzilla for $25 a few days ago.

I removed my passenger seat and footrests so I needed something to mount my new Mosko Moto reckless 80 bags.

these things are made of machined nylon-6 and weigh less than the factory hardware they're mounted with.

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4 hours ago, cameron said:

I found these little gems on revzilla for $25 a few days ago.

I removed my passenger seat and footrests so I needed something to mount my new Mosko Moto reckless 80 bags.

these things are made of machined nylon-6 and weigh less than the factory hardware they're mounted with.

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Any chance you can provide me a couple of pics of your finished setup? Are you running a top rack? If so, which one? I'm looking at going with the Mosko 80 set-up instead of my current Mosko 25L mounted bags.

I think I have Yamaha disease...

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Loaded up for tomorrow, IDBDR.

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2021 Yamaha Tenere 700
2019 Husqvarna TE 250i
2018 Husqy/Oberon/JD FE 450
 
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47 minutes ago, Canzvt said:

Any chance you can provide me a couple of pics of your finished setup? Are you running a top rack? If so, which one? I'm looking at going with the Mosko 80 set-up instead of my current Mosko 25L mounted bags.

I'm not quite done setting up these bags but this should give you a pretty good idea.  I am running the Black Dog rack that replaces the passenger seat. It is aluminum but it's a little heavier than expected.  I don't know, might be about the same as the seat and a bolt-on rack?   It works really well with the Reckless system and it removes with your key just like the seat. These  Mosko bags are extremely well designed, I am pretty impressed with them.

 

Note: side bags are empty in the pictures, they have dry bags that just pull out/strap in. There are also fuel bottle/water bottle pockets that are not yet mounted.

 

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11 hours ago, cameron said:

I'm not quite done setting up these bags but this should give you a pretty good idea.  I am running the Black Dog rack that replaces the passenger seat. It is aluminum but it's a little heavier than expected.  I don't know, might be about the same as the seat and a bolt-on rack?   It works really well with the Reckless system and it removes with your key just like the seat. These  Mosko bags are extremely well designed, I am pretty impressed with them.

 

Note: side bags are empty in the pictures, they have dry bags that just pull out/strap in. There are also fuel bottle/water bottle pockets that are not yet mounted.

 

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Thanks! That's almost exactly what I'm looking for.

I think I have Yamaha disease...

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Picked up my Tenere from the dealer! Brought it home, pulled the rear rack and center stand. I'm going to sell the center stand for sure. Not sure about the hard cases and rack. I have a GL Coyote.

 

Put about 70 miles in two different rides in the afternoon/evening. What a great bike! 

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Put on reflective rim tape just now:

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I think it looks pretty awesome. Picture was taken in the shade in my back yard, so I'll have to wait a few hours and see what it looks like at night with light on it.

 

This is what I used:

 

Looks like it should look pretty awesome at night and improve visibility.

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5 minutes ago, TeabagInsurance said:

Put on reflective rim tape just now:

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I think it looks pretty awesome. Picture was taken in the shade in my back yard, so I'll have to wait a few hours and see what it looks like at night with light on it.

 

This is what I used:

 

Looks like it should look pretty awesome at night and improve visibility.

Looks good. Also looks like you are running Dirtracks crash bars? How do you like them?

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21 minutes ago, kainic said:

Looks good. Also looks like you are running Dirtracks crash bars? How do you like them?

Sure am! I've also got their rear luggage rack and rear tail rack. Everything is very sturdy. The other week I actually crested a hill at roughly 40kph and dumped the bike quite hard on the right side in a drainage ditch running across the trail (don't ride beyond your vision kids!). Barkbusters and front wheel were all twisted up, and there are pretty significant scrapes on the crash bars, but they hardly budged and did their job perfectly, so I'm very happy with them. $227 CAD for crash bars (shipping included) was easily the best price I found when I was looking as well. Highly recommended.

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