"The Fix" T7 Rear Brake Pedal

[Hollybrook]

20 minutes ago, Camel ADV said:

 

Hmm, I'm 6'3" with size 13 feet and almost always wear full MX boots. I've never had a problem with the shifter. That's not to say that other like it (clearly lots don't). The issue I find with shifters (almost all bikes) is not being able to get them high enough to get my giant foot under it so the comments of not being able to move the shifter low enough due to big feet confuses the hell out of me!

The problem occurs with lower pegs.  I am running Bosley pegs that are 30mm lower and 20mm back.  All because of a 37" inseam and size 15 boots. 

 

I wear street, adventure and MX bits depending on where I ride.  The only ones I don't have to lift off the peg to upshift are the MX boots and that is with the shifter as low as I can get it without modifying the lever and with a spacer on the pedal.

 

I think one thing that exacerbates the situation is that I sit as far forward as possible to get more weight on the handlebars.   This tends to rotate my feet downwards. Standing is not as much of an issue with upshifting 

Edited November 10, 2022 by Hollybrook

[Hollybrook]

Another description of the problem can be found here: 

 

https://www.tenere700.net/topic/2407-bosley-pegs/?do=findComment&comment=50835

[Camel ADV]

4 hours ago, Hollybrook said:

Another description of the problem can be found here: 

 

https://www.tenere700.net/topic/2407-bosley-pegs/?do=findComment&comment=50835

 

I'm away this week. I'll have a look when I get back to the shop.

 

[Wintersdark]

18 hours ago, Camel ADV said:

 

Hmm, I'm 6'3" with size 13 feet and almost always wear full MX boots. I've never had a problem with the shifter. That's not to say that other like it (clearly lots don't). The issue I find with shifters (almost all bikes) is not being able to get them high enough to get my giant foot under it so the comments of not being able to move the shifter low enough due to big feet confuses the hell out of me!

Are you running 30mm lowered pegs?  Once you drop your foot pegs that much it's a big deal.  If I was running stock pegs I wouldn't want to lower it.  

 

The key is after you lower the pegs 30mm, you generally want to lower the shifter about 25mm so it ends up higher relative to the peg than it was stock, but in a good spot to allow for the boots.  If you don't, the shifter is now 30mm higher than stock, so downshifting requires lifting your foot entirely off the foot pegs to stomp down gears. 

 

But you can only lower the shifter about 20mm (after cutting the mounting bracket) and that also brings the shifter back closer to the peg, which makes it even harder to get your boot under it.

 

But let me tell you, as a fellow big guy, if you've never tried a t7 with dropped pegs you should.  It's amazingly comfortable, particularly while standing; way better than riders.  As I said, you're more than welcome to give it a go on mine.

[Wintersdark]

18 hours ago, Hollybrook said:

The problem occurs with lower pegs.  I am running Bosley pegs that are 30mm lower and 20mm back.  All because of a 37" inseam and size 15 boots. 

 

I wear street, adventure and MX bits depending on where I ride.  The only ones I don't have to lift off the peg to upshift are the MX boots and that is with the shifter as low as I can get it without modifying the lever and with a spacer on the pedal.

 

I think one thing that exacerbates the situation is that I sit as far forward as possible to get more weight on the handlebars.   This tends to rotate my feet downwards. Standing is not as much of an issue with upshifting 

I wish I got the 20mm back version personally.  Mine are just 30mm down, I didn't consider how much that would be an issue with the peg - shifter gap. 

 

But I chose the straight down for that reason - I didn't want to move my weight rearward on the bike.  So ideally a way to move the shift peg forwards and down would be wonderful.

[NeilW]

Just installed my FIX last night. I have the SW Motech  center stand but that really didn't add extra time to the brake pedal exchange.  Went for a ride just now and the new "correct" travel of the pedal is welcome. I have brand new OEM pads installed now and will be swapping them out for Galfers tonight or tomorrow. They make such a huge difference anyway, I am curious how much more HUGER difference they will make in combination with the FIX.

 

[kainic]

just ordered. The wait begins.

[NeilW]

10 minutes ago, kainic said:

just ordered. The wait begins.

Just remember that there is a 1st thing to do and a last thing to do, just like Cory instructs. 1st is break the jam nut loose on the rear brake cylinder and the LAST is adjust the Rear Brake light. Please don't embarrass me by asking why I bring this up.

[Camel ADV]

4 hours ago, DuncMan said:

Full review now posted.

Thanks Duncan. I appreciate the review!

[Camel ADV]

1 hour ago, NeilW said:

Just remember that there is a 1st thing to do and a last thing to do, just like Cory instructs. 1st is break the jam nut loose on the rear brake cylinder and the LAST is adjust the Rear Brake light. Please don't embarrass me by asking why I bring this up.

 

LOL!

 

[smd3]

I got my ‘fix’ on, today. Install was pretty easy and went on without any issues. 
 

pedal feel is really improved. I think the change in leverage makes it a lot easier to modulate the rear brake at the near-locking limit. Locking the rear tire on pavement is much easier.

 

I haven’t had a chance to try it on any gravel yet, but I’m really happy with it. 
 

Another great Camel ADV product!

[random1781]

My pedal didn't come with the little bracket here:

 

 

...and the slot in the stock one doesn't quite line up with the bolt, overlapping it a bit. From other pictures here it looks like there should be a new one pre-installed, but I wanted to double check...did I miss something or am I missing something?

[NeilW]

4 hours ago, random1781 said:

My pedal didn't come with the little bracket here:

 

 

...and the slot in the stock one doesn't quite line up with the bolt, overlapping it a bit. From other pictures here it looks like there should be a new one pre-installed, but I wanted to double check...did I miss something or am I missing something?

It is supposed to be pre installed. It is a mistake. Cory will make it right. 

[Hibobb]

The Fix just showed up.

Solid built, excellent workmanship, eh.

Snowing out now (Wisconsin USA), gotta find my tuque....

Fine time to grab a 2-4 and install the lever as I work on my Molson Muscle!

(CANADIAN SLANG, UNIQUE PHRASES AND CANADIAN SAYINGS)

@Camel ADV

[DanDoesStunts]

On 10/27/2022 at 5:13 PM, DanDoesStunts said:

very much looking forward to getting one!

Just ordered one, and threw in a high exhaust to make the postage to Australia worth it.

so keen!

Edited November 13, 2022 by DanDoesStunts

[Camel ADV]

22 hours ago, random1781 said:

My pedal didn't come with the little bracket here:

 

 

...and the slot in the stock one doesn't quite line up with the bolt, overlapping it a bit. From other pictures here it looks like there should be a new one pre-installed, but I wanted to double check...did I miss something or am I missing something?

Please email me your info order number and I’ll a switch plate out to you asap!

info at camel-adv.com

[random1781]

46 minutes ago, Camel ADV said:

Please email me your info order number and I’ll a switch plate out to you asap!

info at camel-adv.com

Thank you! Good news is that I was able dremel out the original to get everything in place for the meantime. The spring to the brake light switch has too much slack so the light doesn't come on right away, but honestly with the amount of mud currently on the brake light, I don't think it matters much!

[Camel ADV]

26 minutes ago, random1781 said:

Thank you! Good news is that I was able dremel out the original to get everything in place for the meantime. The spring to the brake light switch has too much slack so the light doesn't come on right away, but honestly with the amount of mud currently on the brake light, I don't think it matters much!

 

Depending on where you have the pedal positioned, you may have to move the switch itself in its plastic holder. The two parts are threaded so you can move the switch toward the front of the bike if needed.

[AK2ID]

Wrapping up this install and I missed something. I’ve got an extra washer which I didn’t see in the video. 
 

I expect it’s the washer outside the brake clevis pin, but seems just a little big. What did I miss? 

[NeilW]

40 minutes ago, AK2ID said:

Wrapping up this install and I missed something. I’ve got an extra washer which I didn’t see in the video. 
 

I expect it’s the washer outside the brake clevis pin, but seems just a little big. What did I miss? 

If it is the same diameter as the brake lever pivot bolt then that is where it goes. To the inside of the bigger ridged aluminum washer and directly next to the brake pedal. According to Cory it isn’t necessary but preferred to be installed- otherwise at the clevis pin. I suspect clevis pin 

Edited November 13, 2022 by NeilW

[Wintersdark]

6 hours ago, DuncMan said:

Update 1 (13/11/2022)

I’ve been out testing this pedal again today and noticed it IS bottoming out on the main bracket in the position I have it. I’m going to adjust the pedal upwards and see how we go but my thinking is that the 20mm lowered Bosley pegs are causing the problem. I will ride again with the new adjustment and see if it’s usable but I think it might be necessary to change out the Bosley pegs for a set that is standard height in order to get the best out of “The Fix”.

Awwww

 

with -30mm that would be a serious problem for me.  

 

Damnit.  I can't go back to stock sized pegs, my knees won't do it.  But I really, really want a working brake.

[Camel ADV]

Just now, Wintersdark said:

Awwww

 

with -30mm that would be a serious problem for me.  

 

Damnit.  I can't go back to stock sized pegs, my knees won't do it.  But I really, really want a working brake.

 

I'll have a look at making a lowered tip for the way lower footpeg guys.

[AK2ID]

2 hours ago, NeilW said:

If it is the same diameter as the brake lever pivot bolt then that is where it goes. To the inside of the bigger ridged aluminum washer and directly next to the brake pedal. According to Cory it isn’t necessary but preferred to be installed- otherwise at the clevis pin. I suspect clevis pin 

It goes on the brake lever. Can’t believe I missed it. Thanks for the help. 

[NeilW]

I am excited to share with you all my review of  THE FIX. 

I honestly believe it is the most important "must have" for the T7. 

I lost my rear brake 5x due to overheating and lost 1/16" of rear brake pads in just a 150 mile ride, both of  which appear to be fixed by the Camel ADV brake lever using a greased bushing and mechanical design changes. 

Here is my review

Comments are always welcome

Camel ADV The Fix Yamaha Ténéré 700 Rear Brake Pedal Review

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Camel ADV The Fix Yamaha Ténéré 700 Rear Brake Pedal Review: Usually, when The Fix is in, that's bad. In this case, it's great!

 

 

 

[AZJW]

 

What a difference!   Test rode mine today, no comparison between "The Fix" and the long travel oem "light switch" pedal.   The Camel brake gives a tactile feel within the expected travel to bring the bike to a stop predictably.   I'd venture to guess it has reduced my stopping distance on pavement as well as dirt, it's that good!

 

Yes, my bike is starting to look like a Camel-ADV ad, but you can't find better stuff IMHO. Great job Cory!

 

Note:  If installing on a T7 with a first Gen Gut Guard, you'll need to drop the Gut Guard down to access and properly torque the engine support bar bolts.